In a little while day dawned, and all the splendour of an Italian
sunrise lit up the scenery. The waning moon shone pale and dim as,
fading, it disappeared in the azure sky. From the lofty hills I had a
view of the Mediterranean; its bright surface gleamed like a sea of
polished glass, throwing out in strong relief the dark frigates anchored
in the gulf, the gaudy xebecques with their broad lateen sails, swift
feluccas, oared galleys, and a swarm of little coasting vessels. These
seas, nevertheless, were at times infested by French cruisers and
Algerine corsairs; who, darting from behind some cape or isle, pounced
upon the unwary merchantman: for this tribe of Mussulman pirates had not
then been extirpated or subdued.
As I advanced, fields of rice, of Turkey corn, and even sugar-canes
appeared at intervals among the wooded hills; and the road-way was
bordered by laurels, myrtles and mulberry trees. A few cottages with
picturesque little mills turned by natural cascades, peeped out from
among groves of the orange and plum-tree; and ridgy mountains, over
whose tall summits the sun poured down his lustre, bounded the
landscape. As the sun ascended higher into the blue vault, and his heat
and brilliance increased, the scenery became involved in a hazy silver
mist, which floated over the face of nature like a veil of the finest
gauze, softening and subduing the vivid and varied tints: it was denser
on the mountains; from whose giant sides vast volumes of white vapour
came rolling down, like avalanches or foaming cascades, into the valleys
below.
The wild and rugged nature of the country, and my ignorance of the
localities, caused me to progress but slowly. When passing through
lonely places, I met more than one scout belonging to various bands of
brigands, watching, rifle in hand among the rocks, and exchanging
signals by imitating the scream of the owl, the yell of the lynx, or the
caw of the rook; but they always greeted me by a wave of the hat, and a
cry of "A holy day to you, signor!" permitting me to pass without
question. In many of these desert places the wayside was strewn with
the dead bodies of French soldiers who had perished from wounds or
exhaustion. By this route some of Monteleone’s brigade had retreated,
and many of the poor stragglers lay in ghastly groups around the rude
wooden crosses, (marking the scene of murder) and stone fountains so
common by the road-side in Italy. They had been stripped—and some
perhaps despatched by the poniards of the plunderers; many were torn by
wild beasts, and all were in a loathsome state of decay, lying unburied,
blackening and sweltering under a burning sun.
A long ride over rough ground brought me to Policastro. Wearied with so
long a seat on horseback under such intense heat, and feeling a langour
caused by the hot south wind which had blown all day, I gladly halted at
the first albergo that appeared.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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