Afghanistan; Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Central Asia)
The citadel is situated to the north of the city and south of it is the
Top Khana. West of this is the tomb of Ahmed Shah Durani, an octagonal
structure, overlaid with coloured porcelain bricks and surmounted by
a gilded dome, surrounded by small minarets. It towers above all the
adjacent buildings and its dome attracts attention to the city from a
distance. The pavement of the tomb is carpeted and an embroidered cloak
is thrown over the sarcophagus. The sepulchre itself, composed of a
coarse stone from the mountains near Kandahar, is inlaid with wreaths
of flowers in coloured marble. Twelve lesser tombs, which are those
of the children of Ahmed Shah, are ranged near the resting-place of
the father. The interior walls are painted in designs similar to those
which adorn the exterior, but the execution is more regular and the
colours, having been less exposed, are fresher and more brilliant. The
lofty dome above the centre imparts an air of grandeur to the little
temple, while its windows of stone trellis work admit a subdued and
pleasant light. The tomb is engraved with passages from the Koran and a
copy of the sacred volume, from which the Mullahs recite passages, is
kept in the sanctuary.
At the point where the streets from the Herat gate and the Shikarpur
gate meet, is the Charsu, a large dome 50 yards in diameter. Here, as
in other parts of the city, are public “humams” or warm baths, where
a course of Asiatic massage, including bathing, peeling, kneading and
drying, costs one rupee. The Afghan mode of treatment differs but
little from that prevailing in India. The houses generally are built of
sun-dried bricks, with flat roofs. A few only possess upper storeys.
The houses of the rich are enclosed by high walls and contain three or
four courts with gardens and fountains. Each of these divisions holds
a single building, separated into small compartments and provided with
three or four large and lofty halls. The roofs are supported upon
wooden pillars, carved and painted. The various suites open upon the
several halls, which are embellished with mural paintings and numerous
looking-glasses. The walls of the rooms are usually furnished with
panels of glittering stucco, a compound of mica and talc, decorated
with patterns of flowers. Their surfaces are broken by many recesses,
sometimes the refuge of very tawdry ornaments. The ceilings are formed
of small pieces of wood, carved, fitted into each other and varnished.
The houses of the poorer classes are represented by single rooms 20
feet by 12 feet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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