Afghanistan; Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Central Asia)
They do not appear to veil themselves
among their own people; upon the approach of the white man a corner of
the _chadda_ is caught quickly across the mouth. The _chadda_ falls
straight down from the crown of the head to the heels and the frayed,
soil-worn tail is left to drag among the dust heaps. The long black
tresses of the women are thickly plaited and ornamented with blue beads
and white cowries. Sometimes a mass of coins is worn like a fringe over
the forehead. Their shirts are finely worked in green and gold on the
hems, at the sleeves, neck, skirt and down the opening at the throat
with the Russian cross stitch.
The Baluchi is a wild-looking man with long, black, well-oiled locks,
which he keeps hanging in heavy curls round his neck and shoulders.
He wears flowing cotton trousers, a cotton shirt, a waistcoat and a
variety of coats according to his means. His apparel is of the dirtiest
and his bare feet are thrust into heavy ammunition boots with never a
lace in them. In spite of certain defects in his attire, he is a very
dignified-looking man and a born leader--of camels! Moreover, he does
not set too high value upon his womenfolk; labour is divided, and in
ploughing his wife and a camel are usually harnessed together. The
price of a spouse is calculated in so many goats, sheep, donkeys or
camels.
From Quetta a good driving road runs as far as Samungli, 8 miles
distant, where there is a small caravansary. From this point a _kutcha_
road bears off south-west circling round the northern foot of Chiltan
in the valley of Girdi Tallao, near the middle of which is the next
halting-place. Here there is a caravansary built in the Persian
fashion--a square courtyard with leans-to for cattle and camel-men and
in one corner quarters, consisting of a mud _rez-de-chaussée_ and a
wooden _chappar khaneh_, for travellers of a better class.
From Girdi Tallao the road proceeds to Tilleri through a cultivated
valley, always bordered by the bare hills. At Tilleri there is another
rest-house built on the same pattern, but possessing the luxury of
windows in the lower storey. After leaving Tilleri the road is level
for the first few miles as far as the Sherinab stream. It then rises
gradually for the ascent of the Barak pass, where there is a litter
of rubble and stones and the ground is very much broken. Beyond the
pass, in the vicinity of Murad Khan Killah, the valley spreads out
to a level plain with sandy, well-cultivated soil--for Baluchistan.
Up to this point in this stage there is not a vestige of a tree nor
yet a camel-thorn bush; even the water is brackish. Moreover signs of
agricultural activity do not continue. Soon after leaving Murad Khan
the route lies across stony, uneven ground until the Kishingi valley is
reached. Here the soil is once more sandy; camel-thorn abounds, and in
spring there is the glow of crimson tulips. Beyond Kishingi, the road
descends into the Nushki plain by a long, steep pass.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account