Afghanistan; Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Central Asia)
In spite of the vagaries of design that distinguish the architectural
arts as they are revealed in Kabul, interest clings to the old Bala
Hissar which, lying on a spur at the foot of the Shere Darwaza, was the
abode of Shir Ali, similarly serving as the Residency for Cavagnari
when that ill-fated officer lived there. The Bala Hissar is now in
ruins, but it still contains the Black Well, a hole of infamous repute,
serving as a prison for political offenders and other malefactors. The
defences of the Bala Hissar have been demolished, although the original
gateway is still standing and the outer wall and moat exist. The fort
itself is now used as a magazine and within the walls rough barracks
have been provided for the troops. The recent increase in the garrison
of the city is expected to occasion its total demolition and the
re-erection of more convenient quarters.
[Illustration: WINTER PALACE OF THE AMIR]
The modern palaces of Kabul are, of course, superior in size and in
their scheme of adornment to the earlier buildings; on this account it
is impossible that they can fail to arrest attention. The residence
which will become eventually the principal seat of the Amir in Kabul
is the Dil Khusha Palace. This is still in process of construction.
Much time has been spent over the work, Mr. Finlayson, the architect
retained by the Amir, being delayed with his task by native jealousies
and Court intrigues. It will be a large, semi-European structure with
two storeys, the upper windows permitting pleasant views of the palace
gardens. Its cost, which will amount to several lakhs of rupees, is
to be borne by the resources of the state which are already quite
sufficiently straitened. As a rule the Amir selects his abode according
to the prevailing season, changing as the whim seizes him, the apparent
caprice being more generally dictated by the fear of assassination.
The favourite palace, the Erg, which was appointed as the quarters of
the Dane Mission, lies a little beyond the town, between it and the
Shirpur cantonment where Elphinstone had his headquarters. Here there
is now located an hospital for sick and wounded soldiers; and, provided
by a paternal and God-granted Government, a retreat for lunatics,
maimed prisoners, and the blind and indigent, where the delights of a
lingering death may be indulged, since the authorities thoughtfully
refuse either aid or medicine. The palace of the Erg corresponds more
nearly with the part played in the old days by the Bala Hissar. It is
at once the central domicile of the Court and a strong defensive work,
although it is commanded by a fort situated on the summit of Asmai.
The accommodation is divided between the palace quarter, occupying
the inmost station, and an inner and outer fort. A high wall, pierced
on its eastern aspect by a square gateway (in which there are no
gates) encloses the entire position. Within the gateway and extending
round the wall of the outer fort are the quarters of the troops, and
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