Afghanistan; Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Central Asia)
Nevertheless, the readiness to follow certain European fashions depends
solely upon the personal influence of the Amir, although the custom
prevails more generally in Kabul than in many parts of India. European
weapons are, of course, acquired by all who can afford them; but the
earliest and the most striking change of dress is the replacement of
the _cummerbund_ by a belt, with a brass or silver buckle and decorated
with two labels--“Made in Germany” and “God Bless the Happy Home.” Upon
more serious grounds the wisdom of this innovation may be questioned,
since the climate of Afghanistan is subject to such great variations of
temperature that the _cummerbund_ affords excellent protection to the
abdominal region. The purchase of socks and “foreign style” coat or,
better still, a discarded uniform follows, while patent leather button
boots are considered to give a nice, dressy appearance to the bareness
of the leg. Trousers are not general in any degree, although they
are affected among the upper classes and also in Court and military
circles. They are made quite loose and are put on over the native
pyjamas. In spite of the popularity which foreign dress has achieved,
it is always discarded in the privacy of the family. While nothing
affords Habib Ullah so much pleasure as showing himself in European
costume in public, nothing will induce him to wear Western clothes
once the doors of his palace have closed upon him and he can recline
at his ease amid well-placed cushions. His disapproval of ostentatious
habiliment was revealed at the Nauroz festival in 1903, when he
ordained that all good Mahommedans of the upper classes should eschew
braid, gold lace and embroidered shoes. He also enjoined them to wear
trousers and to keep the feet and ankles bare. Hindus were ordered to
wear yellow turbans and to encircle the waist with a cord as a mark of
distinction and humility.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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