I was much more gratified in beholding the remains of this Villa than in visiting Tivoli and I remained here several hours. At four o'clock in the afternoon I started on my return to Rome; it was imprudent not to have started sooner, as it is always dangerous to be outside the walls of Rome after dark, in consequence of the brigands who infest the environs and sometimes come close to the walls of the city. I reached my hotel in Rome at nine o'clock, one hour and half after dark, but had the good fortune to meet nobody. The Roman peasantry generally go armed and those who feed cattle in the fields of the Campagna or have any labour to perform there never sleep there on account of the _mal'aria._ [93] Horace, _Epist.,_ II, 1, 156.--ED. [94] Horace, Sat., i, 5, 26.--ED. [95] A _carlino_ is of the value of half a franc or five pence English. The accounts in Naples are kept in _ducati_, _carlini_ and _grani_. Ten _carlini_ make a ducat and ten _grani_ (a copper coin) make a carlino. A grano is a _sou_ French in value. The _ducato_ is an imaginary coin. The _soudo Napoletano_, a handsome silver coin of the size of an _écu de six francs_, is equal to twelve carlini. [96] Not one of these vases was found at Pompeii.--ED. [97] Horace, _Carm_., II, 1, 7.--ED. [98] Virgil, _Aen_., VI, 264.--ED. [99] Virgil, _Aen_., VI, 129.--ED. CHAPTER XII NOVEMBER-DECEMBER, 1816 From Rome to Florence--Sismondi the historian--Reminiscences of India--Lucca--Princess Elisa Baciocchi--Pisa--The Campo Santo--Leghorn-- Hebrews in Leghorn--Lord Dillon--The story of a lost glove--From Florence to Lausanne by Milan, Turin and across Mont Cenis--Lombardy in winter--The Hospice of Mont Cenis. FLORENCE, Novr. 20th.