The city itself, from the massiveness and solidity of the edifices, has more of a solemn than a lively appearance; but there is a delightful walk on the ramparts which are lined with trees. The streets are well paved. The extreme antiquity of the city and style of its edifices make it appear less _riani_ than the other cities in Tuscany. The Cathedral is Gothic and there are in it the statues of the four Evangelists. This and the _Palazzo Pubblico_ are the most conspicuous edifices. Tho' the Republic is annihilated, the word _Libertas_ still remains on an escutcheon on the gates of the city. Lucca, tho' no longer a Republic and enclavée in Tuscany, is for the present an independent state and belongs to an Infanta of Spain (formerly Princess of Parma) who takes the title of Duchess of Lucca. It is generally supposed however that on the demise of Maria Louisa, ex-Empress of the French and now Duchess of Parma, this family, viz., the Duchess of Lucca and her son will resume their ancient possessions in the Parmesan, and that Lucca will then be incorporated with Tuscany. Before the fall of Napoleon the Princess Elisa Baciocchi his sister was sovereign of Lucca, and she it was who has embellished the outside of the city with some beautiful promenades. She devoted her whole time, talents and resources to the good of her subjects and is highly esteemed and much regretted by them. The present Duchess of Lucca has no other character but that which seems common to the Royal families of France, Spain and Naples; viz., of being very weak and priest-ridden. Lucca furnishes excellent female servants who are remarkable for their industry and probity. Their only solace is their lover or _amoroso_, as they term him; and when they enter into the service of any family, they always stipulate for one day in the week on which they must have liberty to visit their _amoroso_, or the _amoroso_ must be allowed to come to the house to visit them. This is an ancient custom among them and has no pernicious consequences, nor does it interfere with their other good qualities. At the back of Lucca is an immense mountain which stands between it and Pisa, and intercepts the reciprocal view of the two cities which are only ten miles distant from each other. This mountain and its peculiarity is the very one mentioned by Dante in his _Inferno_ in the _episode_ of Ugolino: _Cacciando il lupo e i lupicini_ AL MONTE, PER CHE i Pisan veder Lucca NON ponno.[101] I started from Lucca in a cabriolet and in two hours arrived at Pisa, putting up at the _Tre Donzelle_ on the Quai of the Arno. Between Lucca and Pisa are the _Bagni di Lucca_, a favorite resort for the purpose of bathing and drinking the mineral waters.