One day--all nearer excursions being exhausted--they drive to Monte
Senario, that sweet and silent spot, happily too far from Florence for
the swarm of tourists to invade, where earth-weary men have set up a
rest scarcely less dumb than the grave in a lonely monastery of the
Order of La Trappe. Through the Porta San Gallo, along the Bologna Road
they go. It is a soft summer morning, with not much sun. Up, past the
villas and gardens, where the Banksia roses and wistarias are rioting
over wall, and berceau and pergola, climbing even the tall trees. Round
the very head of one young poplar two rose-trees--a yellow and a white
one--are flinging their arms; flowered so lavishly that hardly a pin's
point could be put between the blossoms. Up and up, a white wall on
either hand. The dust lies a foot thick on the road; thick too on the
monthly roses, just breaking into full pink flush; thick on themselves
as the endless mulecarts come jingling down the hill with bells and red
tassels, and a general air of what would be jollity were not that
feeling so given the lie to by the poor jaded, suffering beasts. Up and
up, till they leave stone walls and villas and oliveyards behind them,
and are away among the mountains. At a very humble little house that has
no air of an inn they leave the carriage, and climb up a rocky road, and
through a perfumed pine-wood, to where the Trappist Monastery stands, in
its perfect silence and isolation, on its hilltop, looking over its
fir-woods at the ranges of the Apennines, lying one behind the other in
the stillness of the summer-day; looking to distant Florence, misty and
indistinct in her Arno plain; looking to Fiesole, dwarfed to a
molehill's dimensions.
"I am told that one of the brothers is an Englishman; I did not hear his
name, but he is certainly English," says Cecilia, as they mount the
shallow, grass-grown steps to the monastery door. "If I send up word
that I am a fellow-countrywoman, perhaps he will come out and speak to
me; I am sure that it would be a very nice change for him, poor fellow!"
And it is the measure of the amount of Cecilia's acquaintance with the
rules of the Order, that it is only half in jest that she makes the
suggestion. But she does not repeat it to the lay-brother who stands,
civil yet prohibitory, at the top of the flight, and who, in answer to
Burgoyne's halting questions as to where they may go, politely answers
that they may go anywhere--anywhere, _bien entendu_, outside. So they
wander aimlessly away. They push open a rickety gate, and passing an old
dog, barking angry remonstrances at them from the retirement of a
barrel, step along a grassy path that leads they know not whither. Two
more young lay-brothers meet them, with their hands full of
leopard's-bane flowers, which they have been gathering, probably to deck
their altar with.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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