Alexandria: A History and a GuideForster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
History
Alexandria: A History and a Guide
Forster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
Alexandria (Egypt) -- Guidebooks; Alexandria (Egypt) -- History
(ii). _The Temple of Serapis._ West of the Pillar, reached by a
staircase, are long subterranean galleries, excavated in the rock
and lined with limestone. These were probably part of the
Serapeum—basements of some sort—and enthusiastic visitors have even
identified them with the library where the books were kept; in them
are some small semi-circular niches of unknown use. Some marble
columns stand on the ground above.—South of the Pillar, near the
Sphinxes, are more passages, lined with cement; these too may have
been part of the temple. All is conjectural, and the plan of the
Serapeum, as we gather it from classical writers, can in no way be
fitted in with existing remains. According to them, it was
rectangular, and stood in the middle of a cloister, with each of
whose sides it was connected by a cross-colonnade. The temple
consisted of a great hall and an inner shrine. The architecture was
probably Greek; certainly the statue was—made of blue-black marble
(p. 19), the work of Bryaxis.
(iii). _The Temple of Isis._ Isis, wife of Osiris, was equally
united to his successor Serapis, and had in Ptolemaic times her
temple on the plateau. North of the Pillar are some excavations that
have been identified with it.
(iv). _Two Sphinxes._ Found in the enclosure and set up south of the
Pillar. Of Assouan granite.
(v). _Fragments of a Frieze._ These, magnificently worked in
granite, lie on the slope east of the Pillar; we pass them on the
way up. Date:—about 1st cent. A.D. They may have belonged to the
great entrance gate of the temple enclosure. He who meditates on
them for a little may recapture some idea of the shrine. Note the
Pillar itself so suggests vanished glory and solidity.
This concludes the remains. They are disappointing for so famous a
site, but there is one satisfaction: this is the actual spot. Long
in doubt, it has been identified by the statues and inscriptions
that have been found here; they are now in the Museum; _see_ Rooms
6, 12, and 16.
* * * * *
Just beyond the enclosure of Pompey’s Pillar we leave the tram route
and turn to the right, reaching in ten minutes the Kom es Chogafa
Catacombs.
CATACOMBS OF KOM ES CHOGAFA.
Through the turnstile (5 piastres) is modern asphalt laid down to
preserve the subterraneans from wet. Left, four fine sarcophagi of
purplish granite. Above, the original level of the hill, which has
been cut down by quarrying and excavations; in its slopes are some
cemented passages, antique but uninteresting. On the top of the
hill, a mosaic of black and white stones, much broken away. The
entrance to the catacombs is down the larger of the two glassed
well-shafts.
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