Alexandria: A History and a GuideForster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
History
Alexandria: A History and a Guide
Forster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
Alexandria (Egypt) -- Guidebooks; Alexandria (Egypt) -- History
In ancient time the Temple probably stood on the highest ground, but
with the general rising of level the site is now in a deep
depression and must be hunted for patiently. An oblong space has
been cleared and some columns and capitals from the excavations have
been ranged round it, but it is impossible to reconstruct the
original plan, and much has yet to be unearthed. Indeed it is not
quite certain that this is the right temple; an inscription has been
discovered dedicating it not to Serapis but to Osiris—with whom
however Serapis was often identified. The columns are of granite or
of stucco-coated limestone. Beneath the broken tin shelter was once
a pretty mosaic. The finest object is a stupendous fluted column of
red granite that lies in a pit close by; no use for it has yet
occurred to the military authorities. To the south and east of the
Temple were the houses of the priests, showing fine cemented
passages; these have been destroyed.
The canal by which revellers and worshippers approached this shrine
ran to the south, through the low land by the railway; its course is
uncertain; its exit was either into the (vanished) Nile, or into
Aboukir Bay.
(_c_) _The Upper Baths._ These lie about 100 yds. nearer the sea, on
the slope just above the corner of the great bay that stretches to
Montazah (p. 175). When excavated a few years ago they were almost
perfect. The swimming bath—lined with the hard pink cement that
indicates Ptolemaic or Roman work—had at the top a double step for
the bathers. All round its sides were inserted large earthenware
pots, their mouths level with the surface. Of this unique building a
small fragment now survives. The brick central cistern and the hot
baths can also still be traced.
(_d_). _The Lower Baths and Broken Colossus._—Continuing to round
Fort Tewfikieh we reach the coast and follow it N.E. Awash with the
sea are the foundations of some large baths, showing the entrance
channels which were probably closed with sluices, also some grooves
of unknown use. On the shore above are the hot baths of the same
establishment, retaining traces of pink cement. In the surf to the
left lie blocks of granite: closely inspected, they resolve into
fragments of a Colossus (Rameses II?) and a sphinx.
(_e_). _Catacombs._—Fifty yards on, at a point about half-way
between the coast and the fort are a couple of catacombs, lying each
of them in a hollow. One has a subterranean room, the other a
sarcophagus slide. Traces of tombs and tunnels all over the area and
along the low cliff by the shore.
This completes our survey of Canopus, once so enchanting a spot. Of
its ancient delights only the air and the sea remain.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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