Alexandria: A History and a GuideForster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
History
Alexandria: A History and a Guide
Forster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
Alexandria (Egypt) -- Guidebooks; Alexandria (Egypt) -- History
The main street of Rosetta starts from the Railway Station and runs due
south, parallel to the river, so it is easy to find one’s way. In it is
the only hotel, kept by a Greek; those who are not fastidious can sleep
here: the rest must manage to see the sights between trains. The hotel
has a pleasant garden, overlooked by the minaret of a mosque.
In the main street, to the right;—_Mosque of Ali-el-Mehalli_, built
1721, but containing the tomb of the Saint, who died in the 16th
century. A large but uninteresting building, with an entrance porch in
the “Delta” style—bricks arranged in patterns, pendentives, &c.
Further down, to the left, by the covered bazaars: Entrance with old
doors to a large ruined building, probably once an “okel” or courtyard
for travellers and their animals; one can walk through it and come out
the other side through a fine portal, in the direction of the river. All
this part of the town is most picturesque. The houses are four or five
stories high, and have antique columns fantastically disposed among
their brickwork. The best and oldest example of this domestic
architecture is the _House of Ali-el-Fatairi_, in the Haret el-Ghazl,
with inscriptions above its lintels that date it 1620: its external
staircase leads to two doors, those of the men’s and women’s apartments
respectively. Other fine houses are those of:—Cheikh Hassan el Khabbaz
in Rue Dahliz el Molk; Osman Agha, at some cross roads,—carved wood
inside, date 1808; Ahmed Agha in the Chareh el Ghabachi to the west of
the town, invaded by sand.
At the end of the main street is the most important building in the
town, the _Mosque of Zagloul_. It really consists of two mosques: the
western was founded about 1600 by Zagloul, the Mamaluke or body-servant
of Said Hassan; the other and more ruinous section is the mosque of El
Diouai. There is a courtyard with fountain in centre. The entire mass
measures about 80 by 100 yds. All is brick except the two stone
minarets; the ruined one was “cut with scissors” according to local
opinion, but according to archaeology fell in the early 19th cent. The
sanctuary of the Mosque of Zagloul proper is a stupendous hall; over 300
columns, many of them antique, are arranged in six parallel rows, there
are four praying niches, three of them elaborately decorated, there is
the tomb of the ex-body-servant himself, now worshipped as a saint and
wooed by votive offerings of boats, and, in the tomb, his former master,
the Said Hassan, lies with him, and shares his honours. The sanctuary is
ruinous and carelessly built, but its perspective effects, especially
from the south wall, near the tomb, are very fine and rival those of the
Mosque of El Azhar at Cairo. Light enters through openings in the roof.
East of the Mosque of Zagloul and close to the river is the Mosque of
_Mohammed el Abbas_, date 1809, of superior construction but on the same
style; it has, unlike the other mosques of Rosetta, a fine dome,
covering the tomb of the saint.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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