Alexandria: A History and a GuideForster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
History
Alexandria: A History and a Guide
Forster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
Alexandria (Egypt) -- Guidebooks; Alexandria (Egypt) -- History
* * * * *
AMRIEH STATION. This large village was formerly head of the Eastern
district of the Western Desert Province, but the Administration is
transferring to Burg el Arab. Bedouins come to the train, bigger and
wirier than the Egyptians, and more graceful; they wear rough white
robes and soft dark red tarbooshes.—There is a fine walk from Amrieh to
Mex—the best day’s tramp near Alexandria. The path leads north from the
station, by the communal gardens, then makes for a ridge where limestone
is quarried. View from the top over the western arm of Mariout. Take the
causeway that crosses the lake and on the further bank turn to the
right, finally crossing the coastal ridge to Dekhela (Section VI) and so
to Mex by the sea shore.
* * * * *
IKINGI MARIOUT STATION. (Ikingi is Turkish for “second.”)—A good centre
for the wild flowers of February and March. Go northward towards the
lake, and keep to the lower ground; the local flora is one of the finest
in the world.
* * * * *
BAHIG STATION.—Centre for two fine expeditions—Abousir on the coast, and
St. Menas inland.
ABOUSIR.
The ruins of Abousir lie 5½ miles N.W. from Bahig station. They can be
found without a guide. (_see_ map). There is a good road as far as Bahig
village (¾ mile). Just above the village is a big quarry, worked in
ancient times and very picturesque. A path crosses the ridge rather to
the left of this quarry, after which the ruins are in sight all the way.
The end of Mariout has to be crossed, so the expedition should not be
made in winter on account of the mud. The last half hour of the journey
is magnificent. The Temple and the Tower stand out on the height, which
is golden with marigolds in spring time; and near the top of the ascent
the sea appears through a gap, deep blue, and beating against a beach of
snowy sand. The flowers can be amazing, colouring the earth in every
direction. The ruins are supposed by the Bedouins to be the palace of
Abou Zeit; they really mark the Ptolemaic city of Taposiris, whose name
is preserved in the modern Abousir.
_Taposiris_ must have been built soon after Alexandria (about 300 B.C.),
and it is instructive to compare the two towns. They stand on the same
spur—Taposiris at its base, where it has emerged from the mass of the
desert. The lake is to their south, the sea to their north, so each
commanded two harbours, to the advantage of their trade. Each has a
lighthouse, each worshipped Osiris. Little is known of the history of
Taposiris—called the “Great” to distinguish it from “Little” Taposiris
at Montazah (p. 175). Its immediate trade was with the lake, its
sea-harbour being ½ mile below, at the vanished port of Plinthinus. The
Arabs turned the Temple of Osiris into a fortress, and in modern times
coast guards have been installed here.
[Illustration: ABOUSIR AND DISTRICT]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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