Alexandria: A History and a GuideForster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
History
Alexandria: A History and a Guide
Forster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
Alexandria (Egypt) -- Guidebooks; Alexandria (Egypt) -- History
This church can still be traced. It is the Basilica of the Crypt (Plan I
p. 196) date 350, to which, at the end of the century, an immense
extension was added by the Emperor Arcadius. What caused so rapid a
growth? Water. There were springs in the limestone that have since dried
up, and that must have had curative powers. Baths were built, some of
them opening out of a church (Plan II). Little flasks, stamped with the
Saint’s image, were filled from the sacred source by his tomb. The
environs were irrigated, houses, walls, cemeteries built, until in the
pure air a sacred city sprang up, where religion was combined with
hygiene. Nor did the saint only protect invalids. He was also the patron
of the caravans that passed by him from Alexandria to the Wady Natrun,
the Siwan Oasis, and Tripoli, and so he is always seen between two
camels, who crouch in adoration because he guides them aright. By the
6th century he had become god of the Lybian Desert, then less deserted
than now, and his fame, like that of his predecessor Serapis, had
travelled all round the Mediterranean, and procured him worshippers as
far as Rome and France.
Islam checked the cult. But as late as the year 1,000, an Arab traveller
saw the great double basilica still standing. Lights burned in the
shrine night and day, and there was still left a little trickle of “the
beautiful water of St. Menas that drives away pain.”
The site, entirely forgotten, was discovered in 1905. It has been
carefully excavated. Little more than the ground plans of the buildings
remain, but they are most interesting, and the marble decorations
delightful.
[Illustration: ST. MENAS – PLAN II.
The Sacred Baths]
_The Sanctuary Group._ This lies a little to the south of the
excavators’ huts. Combined length, nearly 400 ft. In the centre is the
original church covering the tomb. To its east is the impressive
addition of Arcadius; to its west a baptistery. On its north side a
monastery. The best view of the group is from a mound outside the
baptistery. The general arrangement is quite clear. (Plan I, p. 196).
Taken in detail:—
(i). _Church of Arcadius._—Length nearly 200 feet. A cruciform
basilica with a nave and two aisles, and aisled transepts. Over the
intersection was a dome, beneath which, now much ruined by its fall,
is the High Altar. Behind the altar are curved steps that supported
the ecclesiastical throne. Both altar and throne are in a square
enclosure where the priests and singers stood; a narrow alley
connects it with the nave. The eastern apse has been used for
burials.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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