Alexandria: A History and a GuideForster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
History
Alexandria: A History and a Guide
Forster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
Alexandria (Egypt) -- Guidebooks; Alexandria (Egypt) -- History
_The Sacred Baths_ (Plan II). About 80 yards from the Monastery
Buildings. Best located by the fine circular cistern of well-cut
limestone blocks. The main building has a heating apparatus and three
baths. Also a small but finely finished church; basilica type; apses at
each end; three aisles. Two baths open straight out of its south aisles,
and in its nave are two marble fountains that were probably filled from
the source in the central sanctuary (_see_ above). Throughout the
arrangements are significant. The line between the hygienic and the
miraculous is nowhere clearly drawn; heating apparatus and church have
each to play their parts. Date of the group, probably 5th century.
Another group lies beyond.
* * * * *
_Northern Cemetery._—This, the most important in the city, is some way
from the groups above described. Indeed the visitor from Bahig leaves it
to his left on his way to the hut. There is a good view of it from a
mound. The main object is a church (150 ft. long), with three aisles, a
square apse and numerous mortuary chapels where the more prominent
invalids were buried. Others lie outside. Late date—7th-9th cent.
This by no means catalogues the ruins of St. Menas. There is a Southern
Cemetery, private houses, wine presses, a kiln where the terra cotta
flasks were made. All the desert around shows remains of the curious
cult, which in some ways anticipated the methods of Lourdes.
Half a day over the desert southward brings a rider to the Wady Natrun.
THE WADY NATRUN.
The Wady is best visited by arrangement with the Egyptian Salt and Soda
Company, who have the concession for developing that section of it where
the Lakes and the Monasteries lie. The Company’s private railway starts
at Khatatbeh, on the branch line between Cairo and Tel-el-Baroud (_see_
Map. p. 174). The train curves up the desert to Bir Victoria, where it
waters beneath a solitary tree. Then it leaves civilisation, and for
three hours nothing is seen except an occasional gazelle. At the end of
that time the ground falls away to the left, and the monastery of St.
Macarius appears far off. Then is seen the chain of the lakes, and
across them, often in mirage, the monasteries of St. Pschoi and The
Syrians. The train descends to the terminus of Bir Hooker, close to the
Company’s factory and rest house.
* * * * *
The Wady Natrun (_i.e_. Natron, Soda) is a curious valley that begins
near Cairo, and slopes north-westward into the heart of the Lybian
Desert. It may have once been an outlet of the Nile, though it is barred
now from the sea by coastal hills. Its upper and lower reaches are both
barren, but in the central section—that which the railway taps—water
survives in the form of a chain of mineral lakes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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