Alexandria: A History and a GuideForster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
History
Alexandria: A History and a Guide
Forster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
Alexandria (Egypt) -- Guidebooks; Alexandria (Egypt) -- History
The main problem was the waters. The English, by cutting the dykes in
1801, had refilled Lake Mariout so that it had suddenly regained its
ancient area. But it was too shallow for navigation and they had filled
it with salt water instead of the former fresh: it gave no access to the
system of the Nile. That system had to be tapped. Alexander could find
the Nile at Aboukir (Canopic Mouth): now it was as far off as Rosetta
(ancient Bolbitic Mouth). Consequently Mohammed Ali had to construct a
canal 45 miles long. This canal, called the Mahmoudieh after Mahmoud,
the reigning Sultan of Turkey, was completed in 1820. It was badly made
and the sides were always falling in, but it led to the immediate rise
of Alexandria and to the decay of Rosetta. Alexandria now had water
communications with Cairo, to which was added communication by rail. The
Harbour followed. Mohammed Ali developed the Western which had been the
less important in classical times. The present docks and arsenals were
built for him (1828-1833) by the French engineer De Cerisy. A fleet was
added. To the same scheme belongs the impressive Ras-el-Tin Palace,
which standing on a rise above the harbour dominated it as the Ptolemaic
Palace had once dominated the Eastern; the favourite residence of the
Viceroy, it indicated that his new kingdom was no mere oriental
monarchy, but a modern power with its face to the sea.
Meanwhile the town started its development, but not on very regal lines.
Houses began to run up and streets to sprawl over the deserted area
inside the Arab Walls. It did not occur either to Mohammed Ali or to his
friends the Foreign Communities that a city ought to be planned. Their
one achievement was a Square and certainly quite a fine one—the Place
des Consuls, now Place Mohammed Ali. The English were granted land to
the north of the Square, on part of which they built their church, the
French and the Greeks land to the south; areas were also acquired by
other communities, e.g. by the Armenians. But there was no attempt to
coordinate the various enterprises, or to utilise the existing features
of the site. These features were: the sea, the lake, Pompey’s Pillar,
the forts of Kom-el-Dik and Cafarelli, and the Arab Walls. The sea was
ignored except for commercial purposes; the main thoroughfares still
keep away from its shores, and even the fine New Quays are attracting no
buildings to their curve. The lake was ignored even more completely—the
lake whose delicate pale expanse might so have beautified the southern
quarters; many people do not know that a lake exists. Pompey’s Pillar,
instead of being the centre of converging roads, has been left where it
will least be seen; only down the Rue Bab Sidra does one get a distant
view of it. Similarly with the two forts; huddled behind houses. The
Arab walls have been finally destroyed—remnants surviving in the eastern
reach where they have been utilised (and well utilised) in the Public
Gardens.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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