Algeria from withinBodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
History
Algeria from within
Bodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
Algeria -- Description and travel
However, before describing these scenes I would like the reader
to catch a glimpse of the country in a clothing different from
that thrown on the screen by the Circuits Transatlantiques. The
average traveler will have fled the shores of North Africa before
the first months of summer, when the big hotels in Algiers have
closed their shutters and the syncopated saxophonists have packed
up their greasy dinner-jackets and crossed to cooler climes. The
hot weather in Algiers itself is singularly unpleasant, not so much
from the point of view of temperature, which never rises very high,
but because of the damp. It is like living in a steam bath all day,
and correspondingly tiring.
Once in the plains of the Mitidja, however, or up in the hills,
the heat is greater but the air is dry, and provided one keeps
quiet in the middle of the day one can quite well bear the summer
months. The temperature of the Sahara is high, but the heat, being
very dry, is not too unpleasant, and though it is not recommended
to pass July and August in an oasis it is no real hardship for the
young and healthy once in a while.
In the first place houses are built to protect one from the sun;
very thick mud walls plastered over, which do not attract the
heat, outside verandahs or inner courts open to the sky, and heavy
shutters, make it possible to keep the house comparatively cool
during the middle hours of the day. Life too is organized to meet
the requirements of the weather. All business is contracted between
six and ten. At eleven everything closes, including the post-office,
and remains shut until three. During these hours lunch is eaten,
followed by the siesta, and it is not until four that those who are
not forced to, appear. By five the main street presents an animated
aspect of Arabs strolling up and down in their white robes, while the
cafés begin to fill up. Those who have gardens in the oasis repair
to them and work until friends arrive to pay calls and discuss the
produce of the rich soil over cups of mint tea, while in a secluded
corner the women squat with the children and gossip in whispers.
Sometimes an Arab of importance will give a dinner in his garden. A
carpet is spread out on the ground, a brass tray is placed in the
middle, while near-by the sheep is being roasted whole on a brushwood
fire. A flutist or a guitarist will play under the orange-trees
by the light of the summer moon. The diners will often remain on
the carpet the whole night and return direct to their business in
the morning.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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