Algeria from withinBodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
History
Algeria from within
Bodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
Algeria -- Description and travel
But when the sirocco starts blowing it is a very different story. It
always comes in series of three, six, nine days, and it usually rises
at dawn. There is no mistaking it. Peacefully asleep, one suddenly
awakes to the rattle of shutters and a sensation that one’s hair
is being scorched on one’s head. Every one is up immediately,
closing every window to keep in a little freshness. The day is
terrible; standing in front of a furnace in a glass factory is the
only comparison possible, intensified by great clouds of whirling
sand which come sweeping across the desert and which drive on for
miles, shrouding the sun in a kind of yellow cloak and creeping
even into one’s innermost chamber as one tries in vain to keep
out of the heat.
But apart from the ordeal of sirocco days a man sensibly dressed
and living a reasonable life in an oasis of the Sahara, with an
average shade temperature of one hundred degrees is better off
than the tall-hatted Londoner devouring his copious British lunch
and not resting in the middle of the day, and the tourist who will
venture south in June will return home with a marvelous impression
of real summer.
2. _Staying in a Country House in the Tell_
Staying in an Arab country house is as different from staying
in a country house in Europe as it is possible to imagine. (I am
speaking, of course, from the point of view of intimate friends
who are treated as the Arabs.)
In the first place there is no specific invitation; one is
asked to come and stay, say in the summer, and when one feels
inclined, one arrives. If one is polite one wires beforehand, but
it is not expected. Secondly, one goes always with some specific
object—to shoot, to visit flocks, to contract some business in
the neighborhood, but rarely just to stay.
When one arrives the host may or may not be there; if he is not he
will have delegated some near relation to do the honors in his place,
and he may appear during the course of the visit. In the same way
he may suddenly go away when one has only been there a few days,
but it does not in the least suggest a hint for the guest to leave;
a deputy host will take his place and things will go on in exactly
the same way.
Another thing in an Arab home, which is quite peculiar to the
country, is the fact that the guests not of the actual family neither
eat nor sleep in the house in which the people live, that is to say
that there is a kind of guest annex which is only opened on these
occasions. This custom is chiefly due to the presence of the women,
who might be difficult to conceal from strangers if they had access
to the main building.
The particular country house I am going to describe belongs to
a _bash agha_ and is situated in the Tellian Atlas near to the
village of Bourbaki. The country is mountainous and produces cereals.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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