Algeria from withinBodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
History
Algeria from within
Bodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
Algeria -- Description and travel
The following day was market-day at Burdeau, some thirty kilometers
away, so that every one was astir at dawn, and before sunrise every
male member of the household had piled into the cars and we were
speeding across the cereal plain which overlooks the Sersou. All
the _aghas_ and _caïds_ of the district as well as those from the
south were there, and there was much kissing and shaking of hands.
I saw here another curious example of the respect of the younger
generation for the older. I wanted my breakfast, so I went into
a café with the _caïd_; my partner and I ordered our coffee. It
was just being brought when up jumped the _caïd_ and went off into
the street. I followed anxiously, and to my surprise he went into
the café opposite, where he ordered the same collation. This time
it was actually brought and set on the table, when like a flash my
companion was up again and outside before I could speak.
I caught him up and saw that he was making for the original café.
“Hi!” I cried, “what’s all this about? Is it a game? Why
can’t we eat in peace? I’m hungry.”
“Didn’t you notice?” he asked calmly.
“Notice what?” I asked.
“My uncle, the _bash agha_ of the Larbas.”
“No, I can’t say I did,” I replied, “but what of it?”
“He came into the first café when I was sitting there, and I
couldn’t remain; and then just as I had settled in the next,
he came in there too.”
“And I suppose we shall go on chasing round Burdeau till the
old gentleman settles or until we die of hunger,” I laughed
back. “No, _mon vieux_, I’m hungry, and I won’t starve for
any one.”
So saying I took my coffee and roll and carried it across to the
_bash agha’s_ table, where I sat down and explained my action. He
smiled, but I realized that he was smiling to please me, and that
he saw nothing in the inconvenience caused to his nephew, who might
wait all day for his coffee if necessary.
On the way back we called on various _caïds_ and rich farmers, who
gave us quantities of sweet mint tea. At one house the old _bash
agha_, who had accompanied us, found an aged _kadi_ who played
chess, so he insisted on having a game while we all had to wait,
regardless of the fact that it was getting near dinner-time.
How different from the customs of Europe, where age is, if anything,
jeered at. Fancy giving a lift to some one’s grandfather after a
day in the country and having to wait while he played a silly game
with a local judge whom he met in some one else’s house!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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