Algeria from withinBodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
History
Algeria from within
Bodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
Algeria -- Description and travel
“Thank you,” I replied, “it will be a pleasure to dine at
your hospitable table and a luxury to eat fish from the sea.”
“They do not come from the sea,” he replied. “They are fish
from the river at Taguine, forty kilometers from here.”
“Freshwater fish,” I exclaimed. “I have lived in this country
long, but I did not know such things existed in Algeria!”
He smiled.
“Come and see,” he went on, and, patting my arm, continued his
stately promenade down the road.
I went and found a party of Arab chiefs I knew. More solemn
greetings. At the beginning of the long meal the fish was served.
There was no doubt about it, they were good-sized river-fish,
a kind of carp or perch or gudgeon with little taste.
The _bash agha_ smiled at my surprise.
“Would you care to fish them yourself?” he enquired.
“Most certainly,” I replied, “but I have no rod or line
with me.”
“I am going to Taguine to-morrow,” he went on, “and if you
come here at eight I will give you a lift, and you can lunch there
with me. I’ll see that you are supplied with rods and lines.”
I thanked him warmly, wondering in myself what the fishing could
be like.
The next morning a _cavalier_ or Arab retainer came round and,
entering my room, roused me from my slumbers by telling me that
the _bash agha_ awaited me.
I bounded from my bed and looked out of the window at the clock on
the Administrateur’s office, but it said only seven. I pointed
this out to the _cavalier_ and explained that I had been warned for
eight. He did not seem in the least impressed, and only repeated
the information that the _bash agha_ awaited me. I gathered that
he expected me to run down in my pajamas. Arabs rarely undress,
and wash only at the Turkish bath and at meals, and they can not
understand that a European can’t walk straight out of his bed to
his daily duties.
I failed to convey any of this to the _cavalier_, and he left me,
repeating that the _bash agha_ awaited me.
At seven-thirty the Caïd Madani came into my room and, after
passing through the ritual of early morning salutations, informed
me that the _bash agha_ awaited me.
I said, “But he warned me for eight, and it is only
seven-thirty.”
He said, “But the _bash agha_ is ready.”
I said, “Well, he ought to have told me to come earlier.”
The _caïd_ did not seem to understand my point of view, and only
replied, “Well, perhaps you will hurry; I will wait down-stairs.”
I hurried, and eventually dashed out, followed by my companion,
to where the car waited. The _bash agha_ sat in a chair and smoked
a meerschaum pipe. He was surrounded by a group of Arab chiefs.
“What respect,” I said to myself. “The old man goes out for
the day and all the chiefs come to see him off.”
The _bash agha_ saluted me and made no reference to the hour of
our departure. I felt relieved.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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