Algeria from withinBodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
History
Algeria from within
Bodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
Algeria -- Description and travel
In certain private houses of great chiefs this atmosphere, to a
lesser degree, exists, and the owner of the bath insists on all the
most luxurious rites being carried out. However, as this remains
private property it can not be entered into, and it will suffice to
describe the common Turkish bath known in Algeria as _le bain maure_,
which resident or tourist, pedler or _caïd_, respectable maiden
or _femme du Quartier_, must use if cleanliness is to be observed.
In this haunt of steam and strange odors there will be found neither
the tiled chambers of Jermyn Street nor the splashing fountains of
Haroun al-Raschid. The entrance to the bath is usually imposing;
this is presumably to attract the passer-by. The entrance-hall is
also roomy, and with a purpose, as it is here that many of the
Faithful come to say their prayers after their ablutions. After
this there is a series of primary disillusions. I purposely use
the word “primary.”
To undress, one is ushered into a small chamber, where probably
a number of other persons of all ranks and ages are already
undressing. One hastily confides one’s purse to the owner or
manager of the bath, who puts it in his pocket. This looks risky
at first sight, but it is in reality quite safe. Having disrobed,
an emaciated bandit appears and, placing a towel about one’s body
and one about one’s head, proffers a pair of wooden clogs, which
are flat pieces of wood the shape of the sole of a shoe with a strap
to go across the foot. They appear to be harmless affairs at first
sight; I emphasize “sight,” for the moment one suggests that
they should be modes of locomotion one is disillusioned. For some
unknown reason these clogs have a distaste to progress in a forward
direction and seem bent on going either to the right or to the left,
or in both directions at the same time—anyway, at right angles
to the proposed progress of the wearer, which rationally should be
toward the bath.
At first it needs the strength and will power of a great and
persevering man to advance with the aid of the wall out of the lofty
court to the heated chamber. The passage is usually narrow and full
of stagnant water, the light is conspicuous by its absence, and as
one gropes for the entrance one’s mind rushes back to memories
of the dungeons beneath the Ducal Palace in Venice. When at last
the massive door has been pulled back, one’s terror, if anything,
increases. A cloud of damp, suffocating steam fills the chamber,
the body becomes suddenly moist, and one instinctively turns to
the exit. However, it is too late; the emaciated bandit is behind,
and pushes one forward through pools of water to a large square slab.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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