Algeria from withinBodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
History
Algeria from within
Bodley, R. V. C. (Ronald Victor Courtenay)
Algeria -- Description and travel
The Grande Mosquée, built in the tenth century A. D., differs
little from other mosques. The Mosque of Sidi-Abd-er-Rahmane is
worth a visit as the resting-place of the patron of Algiers.
The actual Kasba is a picturesque series of narrow streets climbing
up the hill from the Winter Palace to the Fort l’Empereur:
so-called because it was here that Charles Quint for a brief moment
made his headquarters. It is very dirty and smelly.
If one can obtain access to a private house one will have an
interesting peep at a simple interior contrasting vividly with the
riches of the palaces, and from the roof one will obtain a marvelous
view of the Arab city. A visit at night is also recommended, when
the dirt will be invisible and the flickering lights in the dark
streets and the Moorish cafés, with their musicians, carry one
away from the modernisms of the great commercial town which throbs
so close. In both visits it is recommended to start from the top
and walk down toward the sea.
The Admiralty or headquarters of the French Navy in Algeria lies
to the north of the harbor. It used to be the headquarters of the
pirate chiefs, and it was in its lofty chambers that the raids and
expeditions were planned, while below, in the shelter of the tall
breakwaters, the fleet waited for its orders. There are some very
fine tiles and rather massive architecture, also a series of powder
magazines, dungeons, and a remarkable torture-chamber, outside which
is an inscription telling it is the site where Christian hostages
were blown to pieces at the mouth of the cannon.
In one of the cells Cervantes was imprisoned. The visit to the
Admiralty is, however, impossible unless one knows a naval officer on
duty in Algiers or has a pass from one of the government officials.
The Jardin d’Essai, a little to the east of the main city, is
interesting if one has not seen Kew, and the Arab cemetery above
the Kasba discloses a pretty view of the hills behind Algiers; but,
generally speaking, Arab Algeria will not be found in Algiers. And,
though some of the buildings are very lovely, they are all relics
of the barbarous rule of the Turkish conqueror, and they do not
represent anything appertaining to the country.
With the inrush of commerce Algiers has lost its charm, and there
are no other compensations. Even the climate is disappointing. The
winter is wet, and, though there are glorious days of sunshine,
the atmosphere is relaxing. December is a good month, as are also
March, April, and May; the others are either too wet or too hot.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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