All about coffeeUkers, William H. (William Harrison)
History
All about coffee
Ukers, William H. (William Harrison)
Coffee; Coffee Industry; Drinking customs
For a time, when the habit of reading newspapers descended the social
ladder, the coffee house acquired a new lease of life. Sir Walter Besant
observes:
They were then frequented by men who came, not to talk, but to
read; the smaller tradesmen and the better class of mechanic now
came to the coffee-house, called for a cup of coffee, and with it
the daily paper, which they could not afford to take in. Every
coffee-house took three or four papers; there seems to have been in
this latter phase of the once social institution no general
conversation. The coffee-house as a place of resort and
conversation gradually declined; one can hardly say why, except
that all human institutions do decay. Perhaps manners declined; the
leaders in literature ceased to be seen there; the city clerk began
to crowd in; the tavern and the club drew men from the
coffee-house.
A few houses survived until the early years of the nineteenth century,
but the social side had disappeared. As tea and coffee entered the
homes, and the exclusive club house succeeded the democratic coffee
forum, the coffee houses became taverns or chop houses, or, convinced
that they had outlived their usefulness, just ceased to be.
_Pen Pictures of Coffee-House Life_
From the writings of Addison in the _Spectator_, Steele in the _Tatler_,
Mackay in his _Journey Through England_, Macaulay in his history, and
others, it is possible to draw a fairly accurate pen-picture of life in
the old London coffee house.
In the seventeenth century the coffee room usually opened off the
street. At first only tables and chairs were spread about on a sanded
floor. Later, this arrangement was succeeded by the boxes, or booths,
such as appear in the Rowlandson caricatures, the picture of the
interior of Lloyds, etc.
The walls were decorated with handbills and posters advertising the
quack medicines, pills, tinctures, salves, and electuaries of the
period, all of which might be purchased at the bar near the entrance,
presided over by a prototype of the modern English barmaid. There were
also bills of the play, auction notices, etc., depending upon the
character of the place.
Then, as now, the barmaids were made much of by patrons. Tom Brown
refers to them as charming "Phillises who invite you by their amorous
glances into their smoaky territories."
Messages were left and letters received at the bar for regular
customers. Stella was instructed to address her letters to Swift, "under
cover to Addison at the St. James's coffee house." Says Macaulay:
Foreigners remarked that it was the coffee house which specially
distinguished London from all other cities; that the coffee house
was the Londoner's home, and that those who wished to find a
gentleman commonly asked, not whether he lived in Fleet Street or
Chancery Lane, but whether he frequented the Grecian or the
Rainbow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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