All about coffeeUkers, William H. (William Harrison)
History
All about coffee
Ukers, William H. (William Harrison)
Coffee; Coffee Industry; Drinking customs
Perhaps the boulevard des Italiens had, and still has, more fashionable
cafes than any other section of the French capital. The Tortoni, opened
in the early days of the Empire by Velloni, an Italian lemonade vender,
was the most popular of the boulevard cafes, and was generally thronged
with fashionables from all parts of Europe. Here Louis Blanc, historian
of the Revolution, spent many hours in the early days of his fame.
Talleyrand; Rossini, the musician; Alfred Stevens and Edouard Manet,
artists, are some of the names still linked with the traditions of the
Tortoni. Farther down the boulevard were the Cafe Riche, Maison Doree,
Cafe Anglais, and the Cafe de Paris. The Riche and the Doree, standing
side by side, were both high-priced and noted for their revelries. The
Anglais, which came into existence after the snuffing out of the Empire,
was also distinguished for its high prices, but in return gave an
excellent dinner and fine wines. It is told that even during the siege
of Paris the Anglais offered its patrons "such luxuries as ass, mule,
peas, fried potatoes, and champagne."
Probably the Cafe de Paris, which came into existence in 1822, in the
former home of the Russian Prince Demidoff, was the most richly equipped
and elegantly conducted of any cafe in Paris in the nineteenth century.
Alfred de Musset, a frequenter, said, "you could not open its doors for
less than 15 francs."
The Cafe Litteraire, opened on boulevard Bonne Nouvelle late in the
nineteenth century, made a direct appeal to literary men for patronage,
printing this footnote on its menu: "Every customer spending a franc in
this establishment is entitled to one volume of any work to be selected
from our vast collection."
The names of Parisian cafes once more or less famous are legion. Some of
them are:
The Cafe Laurent, which Rousseau was forced to leave after writing an
especially bitter satire; the English cafe in which eccentric Lord
Wharton made merry with the Whig habitues; the Dutch cafe, the haunt of
Jacobites; Terre's, in the rue Neuve des Petits Champs, which Thackeray
described in _The Ballad of Bouillabaisse_; Maire's, in the boulevard
St.-Denis, which dates back beyond 1850; the Cafe Madrid, in the
boulevard Montmartre, of which Carjat, the Spanish lyric poet, was an
attraction; the Cafe de la Paix, in the boulevard des Capucines, the
resort of Second Empire Imperialists and their spies; the Cafe Durand,
in the place de la Madeleine, which started on a plane with the
high-priced Riche, and ended its career early in the twentieth century;
the Rocher de Cancale, memorable for its feasts and high-living patrons
from all over Europe; the Cafe Guerbois, near the rue de St. Petersburg,
where Manet, the impressionist, after many vicissitudes, won fame for
his paintings and held court for many years; the Chat Noir, on the rue
Victor Masse at Montmartre, a blend of cafe and concert hall, which has
since been imitated widely, both in name and feature.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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