All about coffeeUkers, William H. (William Harrison)
History
All about coffee
Ukers, William H. (William Harrison)
Coffee; Coffee Industry; Drinking customs
Storage prior and subsequent to shipment, and circumstances existing
during transportation, are not to be disregarded as factors contributory
to the final quality of the coffee. The sweating of mules carrying bags
of poorly packed coffee, and the absorption of strong foreign aromas and
flavors from odoriferous substances stored in too close proximity to the
coffee beans, are classic examples of damage that bear iterative
mention. Damage by sea water, due more to the excessive moisture than to
the salt, is not so common an occurrence now as heretofore. However, a
cheap and thoroughly effective means of ethically renovating coffee
which has been damaged in this manner would not go begging for
commercial application.
That green coffee improves with age, is a tenet generally accepted by
the trade. Shipments long in transit, subjected to the effects of
tropical heat under closely battened hatches in poorly ventilated holds,
have developed into much-prized yellow matured coffee. Were it not for
the large capital required and the attendant prohibitive carrying
charges, many roasters would permit their coffees to age more thoroughly
before roasting. In fact, some roasters do indulge this desire in regard
to a portion of their stock. But were it feasible to treat and hold
coffees long enough to develop their attributes to a maximum, still the
exact conditions which would favor such development are not definitely
known. What are the optimum temperature and the correct humidity to
maintain, and should the green coffee be well ventilated or not while in
storage? How long should coffee be stored under the most favorable
conditions best to develop it? Aging for too long a period will develop
flavor at the expense of body; and the general cup efficiency of some
coffees will suffer if they be kept too long.
[Illustration: PORTION OF THE INVESTING MEMBRANE, SHOWING ITS STRUCTURE
Drawn with the camera lucida, and magnified 140 diameters]
The exact reason for improvement upon aging is in no wise certain, but
it is highly probable that the changes ensuing are somewhat analogous to
those occurring in the aging of grain. Primarily an undefined enzymatic
and mold action most likely occurs, the nature of the enzymes and molds
being largely dependent upon the previous treatment of the coffee. Along
with this are a loss of moisture and an oxidation, all three actions
having more evident effects with the passage of time.
_Artificial Aging_
In consideration of the higher prices which aged products demand,
attempts have naturally been made to shorten by artificial means the
time necessary for their natural production. Some of these methods
depend upon obtaining the most favorable conditions for acceleration of
the enzyme action; others, upon the effects of micro-organisms; and
still others, upon direct chemical reaction or physical alteration of
the green bean.
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