All about coffeeUkers, William H. (William Harrison)
History
All about coffee
Ukers, William H. (William Harrison)
Coffee; Coffee Industry; Drinking customs
This, then, is the story of how coffee was introduced into Vienna, where
was developed that typical Vienna cafe which has become a model for a
large part of the world. Kolschitzky is honored in Vienna as the patron
saint of coffee houses. His followers, united in the guild of coffee
makers (_kaffee-sieder_), even erected a statue in his honor. It still
stands as part of the facade of a house where the Kolschitzygasse merges
into the Favoritengasse, as shown in the accompanying picture.
Vienna is sometimes referred to as the "mother of cafes". Cafe Sacher is
world-renowned. Tart a la Sacher is to be found in every cook-book. The
Viennese have their "_jause_" every afternoon. When one drinks coffee at
a Vienna cafe one generally has a _kipfel_ with it. This is a
crescent-shaped roll--baked for the first time in the eventful year
1683, when the Turks besieged the city. A baker made these crescent
rolls in a spirit of defiance of the Turk. Holding sword in one hand and
_kipfel_ in the other, the Viennese would show themselves on top of
their redoubts and challenge the cohorts of Mohammed IV.
Mohammed IV was deposed after losing the battle, and Kara Mustapha was
executed for leaving the stores--particularly the sacks of coffee
beans--at the gates of Vienna; but Vienna coffee and Vienna _kipfel_ are
still alive, and their appeal is not lessened by the years.
[Illustration: THE FIRST COFFEE HOUSE IN THE LEOPOLDSTADT
From a cut so titled in Bermann's _Alt und Neu Wien_]
The hero Kolschitzky was presented with a house by the grateful
municipality; and there, at the sign of the Blue Bottle, according to
one account, he continued as a coffee-house keeper for many years.[65]
This, in brief, is the story that--although not authenticated in all
its particulars--is seriously related in many books, and is firmly
believed throughout Vienna.
It seems a pity to discredit the hero of so romantic an adventure; but
the archives of Vienna throw a light upon Kolschitzky's later conduct
that tends to show that, after all, this Viennese idol's feet were of
common clay.
It is said that Kolschitzky, after receiving the sacks of green coffee
left behind by the Turks, at once began to peddle the beverage from
house to house, serving it in little cups from a wooden platter. Later
he rented a shop in Bischof-hof. Then he began to petition the municipal
council, that, in addition to the sum of 100 ducats already promised him
as further recognition of his valor, he should receive a house with good
will attached; that is, a shop in some growing business section. "His
petitions to the municipal council", writes M. Bermann[66], "are amazing
examples of measureless self-conceit and the boldest greed. He seemed
determined to get the utmost out of his own self-sacrifice. He insisted
upon the most highly deserved reward, such as the Romans bestowed upon
their Curtius, the Lacedaemonians upon their Pompilius, the Athenians
upon Seneca, with whom he modestly compared himself."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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