Canada -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
The Place d'Armes, down in the old part of the city, where is the
original Seminary of St. Sulpice, is surrounded by famous structures.
Here are the chief banks and insurance buildings and the head office
of the Canadian Pacific Railway. The most noted of them is the
Grecian-fronted Bank of Montreal, the largest financial institution in
Canada, and believed, with the Canadian Pacific management, who are
closely connected, to be the most potential force in the Dominion.
Adjoining the old Seminary, and facing the square, is Montreal's most
famous church--Notre Dame--its lofty front rising into the twin spires
that overlook all the country round. Its pews seat ten thousand, and
when crowded it accommodates fifteen thousand people. In one of the
towers hangs "Le Gros Bourdon," the largest bell in America, called
Jean Baptiste, and weighing nearly fifteen tons. The church is
mediæval Gothic, built of cut limestone, the spires rising two hundred
and twenty-seven feet, and containing ten bells, making a chime upon
which, on great occasions, tunes are played. The interior, like all
the French Catholic churches, is brilliantly decorated, for the
religious development is the same as that of France in the seventeenth
century, everything contributing to the intensity of the devotion and
the elaborateness of decoration and paraphernalia of the service. At
High Mass, when crowded by worshippers, the choir filled with robed
ecclesiastics officiating in the stately ceremonial, the effect is
imposing. The original church of Notre Dame was built in 1671, a long,
low structure with a high pitched roof. It was pulled down in 1824 and
replaced by the present church, which was five years building, and is
one of the largest churches in America, two hundred and fifty-five
feet long. We are told that the architect, James O'Donnell, who is
buried in the crypt, was a Protestant, but during the work became so
impressed by his religious surroundings that he was converted to a
Roman Catholic. The church is never closed, and at any time one can
enter, and with the silent worshippers kneel at the shrine in a solemn
stillness, in sharp contrast with the activity of the business quarter
without. This remarkable contrast deeply impressed the ascetic
Thoreau, whose boast was that he never attended church. "I soon found
my way to the Church of Notre Dame," he writes. "I saw that it was of
great size and signified something. Coming from the hurrahing mob and
the rattling carriages, we pushed back the listed door of this church
and found ourselves instantly in an atmosphere which might be sacred
to thought and religion, if one had any. It was a great cave in the
midst of a city, and what were the altars and the tinsel but the
sparkling stalactites into which you entered in a moment, and where
the still atmosphere and the sombre light disposed to serious and
profitable thought? Such a cave at hand, which you can enter any day,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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