Canada -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
The great promontory of the Laurentides, Cape Tourmente, stretches to
the river, with the dark mass of ancient mountains spreading beyond in
magnificent array, the cliffs rising high above the water, firs
clinging to their sides and crowning their worn and rounded summits.
On top of Tourmente the Seminarians have erected a huge cross, seen
from afar, with a little chapel alongside. The old Canadian traveller,
Charlevoix, said Cape Tourmente was probably so-called "because he
that gave it this name suffered here by a gust of wind."
"At length they spy huge Tourmente, sullen-browed,
Bathe his bald forehead in a passing cloud;
The Titan of the lofty capes that gleam
In long succession down the mighty stream."
Here are Grosse Isle, the quarantine station for the river, and the
Isle aux Coudres--Hazel Tree Island,--behind which a break in the
Laurentides makes a pleasant nook, the Bay of St. Paul, having little
villages named after the saints all about. Below, the mountain range
rises into the great Mount Eboulements, twenty-five hundred feet high,
its sides scarred by landslides brought down by various earthquakes,
which were once so frequent that the Indians called the region
Cuscatlan, meaning "the land that swings like a hammock." The name of
this mountain means the "falling, shaking, crumbling mountain," but
it is nevertheless now noted as the haughtiest headland of the
Laurentides. This whole region has been a great sufferer from volcanic
disturbances, the chief being in 1663, when the historian says "the
St. Lawrence ran white as milk as far down as Tadousac; ranges of
hills were thrown down into the river or were swallowed up in the
plains; earthquakes shattered the houses and shook the trees until the
Indians said that the forests were drunk; vast fissures opened in the
ground and the courses of streams were changed. Meteors, fiery-winged
serpents and ghostly spectres were seen in the air; roarings and
mysterious voices sounded on every side, and the confessionals of all
the churches were crowded with penitents awaiting the end of the
world." Below this frowning mountain, the little Murray River flows
in, making a deep bay and sandy beaches, and far back, under the
shadows of the bordering hills, are the parish church and the French
village of St. Agnes up the river. This place is Murray Bay, a
favorite watering-place, known as Malbaie among the French, the hotels
and wide one-story cottages of this Canadian Newport being scattered
in the ravine and on the hill-slopes. When Champlain first entered
this bay in 1608 he named it Malle Baie, explaining that this was
because of "the tide that runs there marvellously." It is said that an
attempt was once made to settle Murray Bay with Scotch emigrants, but
the families who were sent out soon succumbed to the overwhelming
influence of the surroundings, and their descendants, while having
unmistakable Scottish names, have adopted the French language and
customs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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