Canada -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
The Isles of Shoals are a remarkable formation--rugged ledges of rock
out in the ocean bearing scarcely any vegetation; and on some of them
not a blade of grass is seen. Four islands stretching in a line make
the outside of the strange group--bare reefs, with water-worn, flinty
surfaces, against which the sea beats. Not a tree grew anywhere until
a little one was planted on Appledore, in front of the hotel, and
another dwarf was coaxed to grow in the little old graveyard on Star
Island. Their best vegetation was low huckleberry bushes, until
someone thought of gathering soil enough to make grass patches for a
cow or two. The utter desolation of these rocks, thus cast off
apparently from the rest of the world, can hardly be realized, yet
they have their admirers. Celia Thaxter, the poetess, was the daughter
of the White's Island lightkeeper, and to her glowing pen much of
their fame is due. She died on Appledore in 1894. The curious name of
these islands first appears in the log of their discoverer, Champlain,
who coasted along here in 1605. They were always prolific fishery
grounds, and the name seems to have been given them from "the shoaling
or schooling of the fish around them." In a deed from the Indians in
1629 they are called the Isles of Shoals. Captain John Smith visited
and described them in 1614, and with his customary audacity tried to
name them "Smith's Islands," but without success. The boundary-line
dividing Maine and New Hampshire passes through the group between Star
and Appledore. The peculiar grouping makes a good harbor between these
two, opening westward towards the mainland, and amply protected from
the sea by the smaller islands outside. These rugged crags resemble
the bald and rounded peaks of a sunken volcano thrust upward from the
sea, with this little harbor forming its crater. When Nathaniel
Hawthorne visited them, he wrote: "As much as anything else, it seems
as if some of the massive materials of the world remained superfluous
after the Creator had finished, and were carelessly thrown down here,
where the millionth part of them emerge from the sea, and in the
course of thousands of years have become partially bestrewn with a
little soil." Their savagery during violent storms, when surrounded by
surf and exposed to the ocean's wildest fury, becomes almost
overwhelming, and they actually seem to reel beneath the feet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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