Canada -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
highest headland on the island. Castle Head is a perpendicular
columned mass, appearing like a colossal, castellated doorway, flanked
by square towers.
[Illustration: _Along the Coast at Bar Harbor, Me._]
For more than a century after Champlain first looked upon this island,
the French made ineffectual attempts at settlement, but it was
not until 1761 that any one succeeded in establishing a permanent
home. Then old Abraham Somes, a hardy mariner from Cape Ann, came
along, and entering the Sound that bears his name, settled on the
shore, and his descendant is said to still keep the inn at Somesville
on the very spot of his earliest colonization. After the little colony
was planted, the cultivation of the cranberry and the gathering of
blueberries kept the people alive, these being almost the only
food-products raised in the moderate allowance of soil allotted the
island. The population grew but slowly, though artists and summer
saunterers came this way, and about 1860 it began to attract the
pleasure-seekers. When the island, in its early government, was
divided into towns, the eastern portion was called, with a little
irony, Eden. Bar Harbor, an indentation of Frenchman Bay, having a bar
uncovered at low tide, which named it, being easy of access, the
village of East Eden on its shores became the fashionable resort. It
has a charming outlook over the bay, with its fleets of gaily-bannered
yachts and canoes and the enclosing Porcupine Islands, but there is
not much natural attractiveness. It is a town of summer hotels and
boarding-houses, built upon what was a treeless plain, the outskirts
being a galaxy of cottages, many of great pretensions. Here will
congregate ten to twenty thousand visitors in the season, and Bar
Harbor has become one of the most fashionable resorts on the Atlantic
coast. Its bane, however, is the fog, a frequent sojourner in the
summer, though even fogs, in their way, have charms. There are days
that it lies in banks upon the sea, with only occasional incursions
upon the shore, when under a shining sun the mist creeps over the
water and finally blots out the landscape. But light breezes and warm
sunshine then soon disperse it and the view reappears. The fog-rifts
are wonderful picture-makers. Sometimes the mist obscures the sea and
lower shores of the attendant islands, leaving a narrow fringe of
tree-tops resting against the horizon, as if suspended in mid-air.
Often a yacht sails through the fog, looking like a colossal ghost,
when suddenly its sails flash out in the sunlight like huge wings.
Thus the mist paints dissolving views, so that the fogs of Mount
Desert become an attraction, and occasionally through them appears the
famed mirage which Whittier describes:
"Sometimes in calms of closing day
They watched the spectral mirage play;
Saw low, far islands looming tall and high,
And ships, with upturned keels, sail like a sea the sky."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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