Canada -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
Eastward from Halifax are more deep bays and good harbors, but the
shores are only sparsely peopled, being mostly a wilderness yet to be
permanently occupied, though the venturesome fishermen have their huts
dropped about in pleasant nooks. Here are Musquidoboit and Ship
harbors, with Sherbrooke village in Isaac's harbor. Beyond, the long
projecting peninsula of Guysborough terminates in the famous Cape
Canso, the eastern extremity of Nova Scotia. This peninsula was named
in honor of Sir Guy Carleton, and has the deep indentation of
Chedabucto Bay on its northern side. Here is a village of a few
hundred sailors and fishermen, where the French had a fort in the
seventeenth century, until the Puritans under Sir William Phips came
from Boston in 1690, drove them out and burnt it. Off this coast and
ninety miles out at sea to the southward is the dreaded Sable Island,
a long and narrow sandspit without trees, producing nothing but salt
grass and cranberries. A lighthouse stands at either end, and there
are three flagstaffs for signals at intervals between them, with also
a life-saving station, and the bleaching bones of many a wreck
imbedded in the sands. It has few visitors, excepting those who are
cast away, and everyone avoids it. Yet, strangely enough, the first
American explorers were infatuated with the idea of planting a colony
on this bleak and barren sandbar, and its history has mainly been a
record of wrecks. Cabot originally saw this island, and in 1508 the
first futile attempt was made to settle it, the colony being soon
abandoned, though some live-stock were left there. Sir Humphrey
Gilbert in 1583 lost his ship "Delight" here, with a hundred men, and
going home on her consort, he lost his own life on the Azores. It was
on this fateful voyage that Sir Humphrey, on his storm-tossed vessel
"Squirrel," sweeping past the other, shouted to her crew: "Courage, my
lads, we are as near Heaven by sea as by land." In 1598 a colony of
forty French convicts was placed on the island and forgotten for seven
years, when they were hunted up and twelve survivors found, whom the
King pardoned, and they were then carried back to France dressed in
seal-skins and described as "gaunt, squalid and long-bearded." This
seems to have ended the attempts to colonize Sable Island. The
Spaniards sent out an expedition to settle Cape Breton, but the fleet
was dashed to pieces on this island. The great French Armada, sailing
to punish the Puritans for capturing Louisbourg, suffered severely on
its shoals. The French afterwards lost there the frigate
"L'Africaine," and later the steamer "Georgia" was wrecked. It is a
long, narrow island, bent in the form of a bow, spreading twenty-six
miles including the terminating bars, and nowhere over a mile wide. A
long, shallow lake extends for thirteen miles in the centre. There is
the French Garden, the traditionary spot where the convicts suffered
during their exile, and a graveyard where the shipwrecked are buried.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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