American Scenery, Vol. 2 (of 2): or, Land, lake, and river illustrations of transatlantic natureWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
American Scenery, Vol. 2 (of 2): or, Land, lake, and river illustrations of transatlantic nature
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
United States -- Description and travel
It is a pity (picturesquely speaking) that the boatmen on the river are
not Catholics; it would be so pretty to see them shorten sail off Our
Lady of Cold Spring, and uncover for an Ave-Maria. This little chapel,
so exquisitely situated on the bluff overlooking the river, reminds me
of a hermit’s oratory and cross which is perched similarly in the
shelter of a cliff on the desolate coast of Sparta. I was on board a
frigate, gliding slowly up the Ægean, and clinging to the shore for a
land-wind, when I descried the white cross at a distance of about half a
mile, strongly relieved against the dark rock in its rear. As we
approached, the small crypt and altar became visible; and, at the moment
the ship passed, a tall monk, with a snow-white beard, stepped forth
like an apparition upon the cliffs, and spread out his arms to bless us.
In the midst of the intense solitude of the Ægean, with not a human
dwelling to be seen on the whole coast from Moron to Napoli, the effect
of this silent benediction was almost supernatural. He remained for five
minutes in this attitude, his long cowl motionless in the still air, and
his head slowly turning to the ship as she drew fast round the little
promontory on her course. I would suggest to Our Lady of Cold Spring,
that a niche under the portico of her pretty chapel, with a cross to be
seen from the river by day, and a lamp by night, would make at least a
catholic impression on the passer by, though we are not all children of
St. Peter.
Half way between the mountain and our Lady’s shrine, stands, on a superb
natural platform, the romantic estate of Undercliff, the seat of Colonel
Morris. Just above it rises the abrupt and heavily wooded mountain, from
which it derives its name; a thick grove hides it from the village at
its foot; and, from the portico of the mansion, extend views in three
directions unparalleled for varied and surprising beauty. A road,
running between high-water mark and the park gate, skirts the river in
eccentric windings for five or six miles; the brows of the hills
descending to the Hudson in the west and north, are nobly wooded and
threaded with circuitous paths, and all around lies the most romantic
scenery of the most romantic river in the world.
The only fault of the views from West Point, is, that West Point itself
is lost as a feature in the landscape. The traveller feels the same
drawback which troubled the waiting-maid when taken to drive by the
footman in her mistress’s chariot—“How I wish I could stand by the road
side and see myself go by!” From Undercliff, which is directly opposite,
and about at the same elevation, the superb terrace of the Military
School is seen to the greatest advantage. The white barracks of
Camptown, the long range of edifices which skirt the esplanade, the
ruins half way up the mountain of old Fort Putnam, and the waving line
of wood and valley extending to Mr. Cozzen’s estate of “Stoney
Lonesome,” form a noble feature in the view from Undercliff.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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