Among the Canadian AlpsBurpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
History
Among the Canadian Alps
Burpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
Canadian Rockies (B.C. and Alta.)
Although W. S. Green had made an attempt in 1888, it was not until two
years later that the giant of the Selkirks, Mount Sir Donald, was
conquered. In July, 1890, Carl Sulzer and Emil Huber, of the Swiss
Alpine Club, set out one morning about 4 o'clock from their camp at
timber line, determined to find a way to the summit of the magnificent
peak that shot up into the sky from their very feet. They had already
studied the mountain from several points, and had selected a route
that looked promising.
Crossing a small glacier, they turned up a couloir or gully
terminating in a cave, above which the cliffs rose almost
perpendicularly. The last part of the couloir became so narrow that
the climbers had to force their way up by propping their bodies in the
angle against the rocks on either side.
After a short rest, they started climbing up to the rocks of the
southern ridge. It was stiff work in places even for such experienced
mountaineers, but finally they reached the main crest and "gazed
beyond the undulating tops of the foothills, upon the far-stretched
row of blue peaks of the Rocky Mountains." Following the arête, or
steep ridge of the mountain, and overcoming more than one difficulty
as they went, they finally stood upon the summit, 10,800 feet above
the sea.
From this isolated point they had a wonderful view of the Selkirks,
with the main range of the Rockies in the distance. "The finest view
presented itself in the southwest and south. Above the undulations of
the Asulkan and Illecillewaet glaciers and opposite a deep valley, the
fine group of Mount Dawson arose with its two corner-pillars, Mount
Donkin and Mount Fox. But the most beautiful mountain of all appeared
above the opening between Mount Dawson and Mount Donkin. It was Mount
Purity, very properly so called, a snow mountain of the finest order."
Building a cairn to commemorate the first ascent of Sir Donald, and
burying in it a bottle containing a record of the climb, ending with
the jubilant words, "Three cheers for Switzerland," they retraced
their way down the mountain, and were enthusiastically received at
Glacier House, news of the first big climb in the Selkirks being
immediately telegraphed east and west.
Toward the end of the same month, Herr Huber, accompanied by Messrs.
Topham and Forster, of the English Alpine Club, made the first ascent
of Mount Purity, which had been named by Topham. They camped on the
western slopes of the mountain, and set out for the summit about
sunrise the following morning. The climb was a comparatively easy one
to such seasoned mountaineers, and two hours' work brought the party
to the summit.
Meanwhile Herr Sulzer was attacking another virgin peak, which he had
named Swiss Peak. He had but one companion, with little or no
experience in mountain-climbing, so that the attempt was a somewhat
daring one.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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