The interest of these speculations had caused me to forget that we were
still in the desert. Our guide caught us up at Murrât, whither we had
galloped recklessly, and explained that he had had some difficulty in
allaying the suspicions of a small encampment of the Amarât half-hidden
in the valley. The men, seeing us hurrying past, had taken us for
robbers and were preparing to shoot at us. At a soberer pace we turned
back along the valley. It was marshy in places, intersected by little
streams from the springs, and covered with a white crust of
salts--sabkhah, the Arabs call such regions--on which nothing grew but a
malignant-looking thorny shrub, thelleth, useless to man and beast. The
water of the springs was “heavy,” Muḥammad told me, like the water of
Raḥḥâlîyeh. Half-an-hour’s ride down the valley we crossed the
Raḥḥâlîyeh-Shetâteh road at a point where there were traces of good
masonry. Another half-hour ahead stood the mound of Bardawî, our
objective. Being in good spirits we devoted the interval to song.
Muḥammad gave us his ode to the motor, and I obliged with “God save the
King,” translated into indifferent Arabic for the benefit of the
audience.
[Illustration: FIG. 72.--BARDAWÎ.]
“The words are good,” said Muḥammad politely, “but I do not care about
the air.”
So we came to Bardawî, a striking tell with an oval fortress standing
upon it (Fig. 72). There had been at least three storeys of vaulted
rooms lifting the strange tower-like structure high above the level of
the desert (Fig. 73). It suggests a watchtower guarding the eastern
approaches to the city, but I am not prepared to affirm that the present
edifice is earlier than the Mohammadan period. A substructure and the
remains of an upper floor are standing, the ground plan of both being
the same. A small vaulted hall, with three vaulted chambers on either
side, occupied the centre of the building; the door, with traces of a
porch or ante-room, lay to the west; while to the east there were two
much-ruined chambers, which communicated with the hall by means of a
narrow door. The masonry is of undressed stones laid in mortar. The
vaults of the side chambers seem to have been built over a rude
centering; they are much flattened and so irregularly constructed as to
approach in form to a gable roof. These rooms were lighted by a small
round hole in the outer wall, under the apex of the vault. The vault of
the hall springs with a double outset from the wall and terminates at
the eastern end (the west end is ruined) in a semi-dome which was
adjusted to the rectangular corners by means of squinch arches (Fig.
74). The partition walls are carried up above the level of the upper
vaults, apparently for another storey. The lower part of a strong facing
of masonry is still in existence on the south side, and I conjecture
that it was continued originally to the top of the tower. Having
photographed and planned this singular building, we dismissed our guide,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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