Whether it were a Lakhmid palace or no, it was the palace which I had
set forth to seek. It belongs architecturally to the group of Sassanian
buildings which are already known to us, and historically it is related
to the palaces, famous in pre-Mohammadan tradition, whose splendours had
filled with amazement the invading hordes of the Bedouin, and still
shine with a legendary magnificence, from the pages of the chroniclers
of the conquest. Even for the Mohammadan writers they had become nothing
but a name. Khawarnaḳ, Sadîr, and the rest, fell into ruin with Ḥîrah,
the capital of the small Arab principality that occupied the frontiers
of the desert, and their site was a matter of hearsay or conjecture.
“Think on the lord of Khawarnaḳ,” sang ’Adî ibn Zaid prophetically--
“---- eyes guided of God see clear--
He rejoiced in his might and the strength of his hands, the encompassing
wave and Sadîr;
And his heart stood still and he spake: ‘What joy have the living to
death addressed?
For the open cleft of the grave lies close upon pleasure and power
and rest.
Like a withered leaf they fall, and the wind shall scatter them
east and west.’”
But for all its total disappearance under the wave of Islâm, the Lakhmid
state had played a notable part in the development of Arab culture. It
was at Ḥîrah that the desert came into contact with the highly organized
civilization of the Persians, with the wealth of cultivated lands and
the long-established order of a settled population; there, too, as among
the Ghassânids on the Syrian side of the wilderness, they made
acquaintance with the precepts of Christianity which exercised so marked
an influence on the latest poets of the Age of Ignorance, some of whom,
like ’Adî ibn Zaid himself, are known to have been Christians, and
prepared the way for the Prophet’s teaching.[80] So little have the
eastern borders of the Syrian desert been explored that except for the
ruin field of Ḥîrah, a town which was destroyed in order to furnish
building materials for the Moslem city of Kûfah, and a cluster of
mouldering vaults, said to represent the castle of Khawarnaḳ,[81] not
one of the famous pre-Mohammadan sites has been identified, and it is
possible that important vestiges of the Lakhmid age may lie unsuspected
within a few days’ journey from regions familiar to travellers and even
to tourists. Meanwhile Kheiḍir (the name is the colloquial abbreviation
of Ukheiḍir = a small green place) is the finest example of Sassanian
architecture which has yet been discovered. Its wonderful state of
preservation is probably due to the fact that it was some distance
removed from the nearest inhabited spot. Shetâteh is separated from it
by three hours of naked desert; the canals that feed Kerbelâ are yet
further away, and the water supply of Ukheiḍir, derived from wells in
the Wâdî Lebai’ah, is too small to have tempted the fellaḥîn to
establish themselves there.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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