For the past twelve years a little group of German excavators has lived
and worked among the mounds of Babylon. To them I went, in full
assurance of the hospitality which they extend to all comers. The
traveller who enters their house, sheltered by palm-trees, on the banks
of the Euphrates, will find it stored with the best fruits of
civilization: studious activity, hard-won learning and that open-handed
kindness which abolishes distinctions of race and country. As he watches
the daily task of men who are recovering the long-buried history of the
past, he will not know how to divide his admiration between the almost
incredible labour entailed by their researches and the marvellous
culture which their work has laid bare. “Only to the wise is wisdom
given, and knowledge to them that have understanding.”
Within the largest of the mounds, the Ḳaṣr, or castle, as the Arabs call
it, lie the remains of Nebuchadnezzar’s palace. Another eight or ten
years’ work will be needed to complete the ground plan of the whole
structure, but enough has been done to show the nature of the house
wherein the king rested. It is built of square tiles, stamped with his
name and bound together with asphalt. The part which has been excavated
consists of an immense irregular area enclosed by thick walls. One of
these (it forms the quay of a canal) is called by the workmen “the
father of twenty-two,” _i. e._ it is twenty-two metres across; another
reaches the respectable width of seventeen metres, but usually the royal
builder was content with five or six metres, or even less. Within the
enclosure lies a bewildering complexity of small courts and passages
with chambers leading out of them--the more bewildering because in many
cases the bricks have disappeared, and the walls must be traced by means
of the spaces left behind. For more than a thousand years after the fall
of Babylon no man building in its neighbourhood was at the pains to
construct brick-kilns, but when he needed material he sought it in
Nebuchadnezzar’s city. Greek, Persian and Arab used it as a quarry, and
as you climb the stairs of the German house you will become aware of the
characters that spell the king’s name upon the steps beneath your feet.
The small courts and chambers, which were no doubt occupied by retinues
of officials and servants of the palace, formed a bulwark of defence for
the king. His apartments lay behind a wide paved court. From the court a
doorway leads into a large oblong chamber, in the back wall of which is
a niche for the throne. This is believed to be the banqueting hall where
Belshazzar made his feast, and on a fragment of wall facing the throne
you may see, if you please, the fingers of a man’s hand writing the
fatal message. How this hall was roofed is an unsolved problem. No
traces of vaulting have been found, yet the width from wall to wall is
so great that it is doubtful whether it could have been covered by a
roof of beams.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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