many a lintel of the churches in and near Môṣul, which are generally to
be dated in the thirteenth century and owe their decorative motives
entirely to the arts of Islâm. There the snakes are sometimes combined
with the cross-legged figure, precisely as at Baghdâd, and frequently
the figure appears seated between a pair of rampant lions. I am inclined
to regard the whole snake-and-figure or lion-and-figure scheme as Inner
Asiatic, possibly it is due to Chinese influence. The seated figure, as
has been noticed by de Beylié,[96] bears a curious resemblance to the
Buddha type, and at Môṣul the affinities with early Buddhist motives are
even more strongly accentuated in the art of the thirteenth century. The
second of the eastern gates, the Bâb el Wusṭânî, consists also of a
domed octagonal chamber outside the wall, connected with the city by a
low bridge, with walls on either hand, that leads across the moat. The
dome, set on eight niches, is a fine piece of construction.
Within the town the traces of the Baghdâd that existed before the Mongol
invasion are woefully scanty. There is a beautiful minaret in the Sûḳ el
Ghazl (Fig. 116) which is dated by an inscription of the Khalif
Mustanṣir in the year 1236,[97] and at the end of the lower pontoon
bridge stand considerable remains of the Mustanṣirîyeh College,
completed by the Khalif Mustanṣir in the year 1233 and now used as a
custom house. A splendid inscription of Mustanṣir runs along the wall
facing the river to the north of the bridge. Behind the wall there are
parts of a court with ruined chambers round it, and to the south of the
bridge I was conducted through another series of chambers which look as
if they had belonged to a bath. The mastery of structural problems shown
by the architects of Islâm in the thirteenth century is nothing short
of amazing. Every trace of decoration has disappeared from the walls of
these buildings, yet the admirable quality of the brick masonry and the
feats performed in the vaulting make the half-ruined halls as beautiful
as a palace. The octagonal rooms are covered by very shallow brick domes
set over the angle on squinch arches of patterned brick.[98] Square
chambers are invariably roofed with four-sided domes, and over long
rectangular halls the four-sided dome again appears, the two extremities
being parted by a span of absolutely flat brick roof which depends for
its solidity upon the excellence of the mortar.[99] Not far from the
custom house is a twelfth-century khân, Khân Orthma,[100] and in the
Khâṣakî Jâmi’ there is a very beautiful miḥrâb cut out of a single block
of stone.[101] Beyond these there was but one other place which I
desired to see. I had read[102] that there existed in the arsenal some
fragments of one of the palaces of the khalifs, beautifully decorated
with stucco, and accordingly I set out in all innocence to visit them.
The arsenal lies at the extreme north end of the bazaar, not far from
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