He said that the whole Mohammadan world had been outraged by
the story and had learnt from it to distrust the character of the
English. “When you conquered India you won it by love and gentleness”
(oh shade of Clive and Warren Hastings!), “thus showing how excellent
was your civilization; but when we heard that at Denshâwî you had shot
down women and children, we knew that you had fallen from your lofty
place.” I did not attempt to answer these charges; it would have been
useless, for the Naḳîb would not have believed me--and had not some of
my country-people brought similar accusations against their own
officers?--but I would point here a simple moral. It is that Islâm is
like a great sounding board stretched across Asia. Every voice goes up
to it and reverberates back; every judgment pronounced in anger, every
misrepresentation, comes down from it magnified a thousandfold. At the
end of the interview the Naḳîb sent one of his servants with me to show
me the tekîyeh. It is a very remarkable sight. Thousands of pilgrims can
be lodged in the two-storeyed rooms which surround the broad courts, and
men of every nationality were washing at the fountain and strolling
under the arcades. Such foundations as these are the meeting places of
Islâm; here news is circulated from lip to lip, here opinions are
formed, here the Mohammadan faith realizes its unity.
The day before I left Baghdâd was Easter Sunday, Yaum el Âzirah as it
is popularly called, the Day of the Silk Mantles, on account of the
gorgeous garments worn by the Christian women. They walked through the
streets dressed in cloaks of every soft and brilliant hue, woven in
exquisitely contrasting colours. The Greek Catholic church, where I went
to Mass, looked like a garden of tulips, but one of the priests, an
Austrian by nationality, whom I met as I came away, deplored the scene
and said that his congregation thought of nothing but clothes and
adornments. The Catholic community is increasing, so he told me; when he
came to Baghdâd eleven years ago it numbered but 4,000, and now he
reckoned it at 10,000. He proposed that I should see the school, which
was close at hand, and accompanied me thither to introduce me to one of
his colleagues, a French father. It was an exalted moment at the school;
the black-eyed children were sitting in rows upon the floor and eating
their Sunday breakfast. Usually this breakfast consists of the simplest
fare, but on the Day of the Silk Mantles there are bowls of steaming hot
crushed grain and succulent chunks of meat, a feast to satisfy the
children of kings.
With this I returned to the roses and green lawns of the Residency
garden, to dream of brightly-robed women and far-travelled pilgrims, of
the clash and contest of creeds, and of truth, which lies somewhere
concealed behind them all.
CHAPTER VI
BAGHDÂD TO MÔṢUL
_April 12--April 28_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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