Mu’taṣim’s choice of Sâmarrâ as the site of his new capital when Baghdâd
had become distasteful to him was, according to the Arab historians,
determined by the purest hazard. Ya’ḳûbî, writing at the close of the
ninth century when Sâmarrâ had recently been abandoned, relates that
Mu’taṣim fixed first upon Ḳâṭûl, a point lower down the river, but that
the site did not prove satisfactory.[119] And upon a certain day he rode
out to the chase; “and he continued upon his way until he came to a
place called Surra man raa” (who sees it rejoices), “which is a desert
of the Tîrhân district; there were no buildings in it, and no
inhabitants, except a Christian monastery. And he stopped at the
monastery and spoke with those who were in it, and said: ‘What is the
name of this place?’ And one of the monks said: ‘We find in our ancient
books that this place is called Surra man raa, and that it was a city of
Shem son of Noah.’” Mu’taṣim accepted the good omen, together with other
prophetic matter related by the monks, and chose the place for his
capital. The etymology was, however, as fortuitous as was the khalif’s
selection; the name Sâmarrâ has in reality nothing to do with the Arabic
phrase. A town had existed on the Tigris bank long before Arabic was
spoken there; it was called in Aramaean Sâmarrâ, and Ammianus
Marcellinus alludes to it as Sumere.[120]
Half-way between Ḳâim and the modern Sâmarrâ we came to the first of the
palace enclosures, a large oblong space surrounded by a ruined wall of
sun-dried bricks set with round bastions. The remains of a gateway
decorated with niches led into another enclosure similar to the first,
and both stretched down to the river-bank. From this point the surface
of the ground is seamed with ruin mounds, and just before we reached
Sâmarrâ (about an hour from Ḳâim) we passed another clearly-marked
enclosure by the river. My camp had gone on while I was examining
Ḳadsîyeh, and Fattûḥ had pitched the tents on the brink of the high bank
that overhangs the Tigris. When I saw it I rejoiced, like Mu’taṣim, for
the position could not have been bettered; and moreover the modern town
of Sâmarrâ stands somewhat back from the river, so that we did not
molest its Shî’ah inhabitants, neither did they disturb us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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