Throughout the area of the city a series of deep trial trenches have
been dug, cutting through the Parthian period, through the late
Assyrian, and down to the earliest times. These trenches afford
materials for the most fascinating studies. One of the earliest cities
that stood upon the mound of Asshur is, curiously enough, the easiest to
trace. The houses are in an unusually perfect state; their walls,
preserved not infrequently to a height of several feet, enclose little
cobbled courtyards with narrow cobbled streets between. These worn and
ancient ways, emerging from under the steep sides of the trench and
disappearing again into the earth at its furthest limit, give the
observer a sense as of visualized history, as though the millenniums had
dropped away that separate him from the busy life of the antique world.
It is probable that the city to which they belong was destroyed by some
overwhelming catastrophe, laid desolate, perhaps by an onslaught of the
Mitanni kings of northern Mesopotamia or of the Babylonians from the
south, and so left in age-long ruin until a later generation completed
the filling up of court and street which had been begun by time,
levelled the whole and built their dwellings upon foundations of the
past. The Assyrians were content to leave their story inscribed on clay
cylinder or on stone; they did not, like the Egyptians, rear for their
dead enduring monuments, but each man in turn was thrust into a clay
sarcophagus or sepulchral jar lying immediately below the floor of his
own dwelling--we counted as many as fifteen burials in one of the
smaller houses--or placed, with a slightly greater regard for the
comfort of the living, in an adjoining subterranean chamber vaulted with
brick.
As Dr. Andrae led me about the city, drawing forth its long story with
infinite skill from wall and trench and cuneiform inscription, the
lavish cruel past rushed in upon us. The myriad soldiers of the Great
King, transported from the reliefs in the British Museum, marched
through the gates of Asshur; the captives, roped and bound, crowded the
streets; defeated princes bowed themselves before the victor and subject
races piled up their tribute in his courts. We saw the monarch go out to
the chase, and heard the roaring of the lion, half paralyzed by the dart
in its spine, which animates the stone with its wild anguish. Human
victims cried out under nameless tortures; the tide of battle raged
against the walls, and, red with carnage, rose into the palaces.
Splendour and misery, triumph and despair, lifted their head out of the
dust.
One hot night I sat with my hosts upon the roof of their house. The
Tigris, in unprecedented flood, swirled against the mound, a waste of
angry waters. Above us rose the zigurrat of the god Asshur. It had
witnessed for four thousand years the melting of the Kurdish snows,
flood-time and the harvest that follows; gigantic, ugly, intolerably
mysterious, it dominated us, children of an hour.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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