There was once a famous Nestorian monastery, the Cloister of the Ark,
upon the summit of Mount Jûdî, but it was destroyed by lightning in the
year of Christ 766.[177] Upon its ruins, said Kas Mattai, the Moslems
had erected a shrine, and this too has fallen; but Christian, Moslem and
Jew still visit the mount upon a certain day in the summer and offer
their oblations to the Prophet Noah. That which they actually see is a
number of roofless chambers upon the extreme summit of the hill. They
are roughly built of unsquared stones, piled together without mortar,
and from wall to wall are laid tree-trunks and boughs, so disposed that
they may support a roofing of cloths, which is thrown over them at the
time of the annual festival. To the east of these buildings there is an
open court enclosed by a low stone wall. The walls both of the chambers
and of the court are all, as I should judge, constructions of a recent
date, and they are certainly Mohammadan, since one of the chambers
contains a miḥrâb niche to the south, and in the enclosing wall of the
court there is a similar rough niche. Further to the west lie the ruins
of a detached chamber built of very large stones, and perhaps of an
earlier date. Beneath the upper rocks upon which these edifices stand,
there is a tank fed by the winter snows which had not entirely
disappeared from the mountain-top. Still further down, upon a small
plateau, are scattered fragments of a different architecture, carefully
built walls, stone doorposts, and lintels showing above the level of the
soil. Here, I make little doubt, was the site of the Nestorian
monastery.
The prospect from the ziyârah was as wild, as rugged and as splendid as
the heart could desire, and desolate beyond measure. The ridge of Jûdî
Dâgh sinks down to the north on to a rolling upland which for many miles
offers ideal dwelling-places for a hardy mountain folk. There were but
four villages to be seen upon it. The largest of these was Shandokh, the
home of a family of Kurdish âghâs whose predatory habits account for the
scantiness of the population. To the east of it lay Heshtân, which is in
Arabic Thamânîn (the Eighty), so called because the eighty persons who
were saved from the Deluge founded there the first village of the
regenerated world when they descended from Jebel Jûdî.[178] Further to
the north an endless welter of mountains stretched between us and Lake
Vân. They rose, towards the east, into snowy ranges, and very far to the
south-east we could see the highest snow-peaks of Tiyârî, where the
Nestorians, grouped under a tribal system, defend their faith with their
lives against the Kurdish tribes--a hereditary warfare, marked with
prodigies of valour on the part of the Christians, and with such success
as the matchlock may attain over the Martini rifle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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