We rode next morning into Midyâd,[200] and camped beside the ruined
church of Mâr Philoxenos which, since it has not been recently repaired,
is of greater interest than any other in the town.[201] The task of
planning it was a labour of hatred. The population of Midyâd, men, women
and children, stationed themselves upon the ruined walls, and for them
it was no doubt the most entertaining afternoon which they had spent for
many a long week, but for me, and for the patient bearers of the
measuring tape, the hours were charged with exasperation. The Ḳâimmaḳâm,
when he appeared upon this agitated scene (Midyâd is the seat of
government in the Ṭûr ’Abdîn), succeeded in clearing the ruins for a few
moments, but as soon as he had turned his back, the hordes reassembled
with a greater zest than before.
My Christian servants returned in the evening from the bazaar gravely
disquieted by the gossip which was current there. It was rumoured that
the wave of massacre had spread to Aleppo and they trembled for the fate
of their wives and families. The news which was causing us so much
anxiety was in fact nearly a month old, but we did not learn until we
reached Diyârbekr that Aleppo had escaped with a week of panic.
The next day was devoted to three churches which I visited and planned
on the way to Khâkh, Mâr Yâ’ḳûb at Ṣalâḥ, Mâr Kyriakos at Arnâs and Mâr
’Azîzîyeh at Kefr Zeh. I doubt whether there exists anywhere a group of
buildings
[Illustration: FIG. 201.--KHÂKH, CHURCH OF THE VIRGIN.]
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