They were as much troubled by the thought that they could not offer me a
fitting hospitality. The oda (the village guest-chamber) was in ashes,
and the few houses on the bluff were crowded with women and children.
But there was nothing to detain me. The ancient buildings had suffered
with the modern; the inscribed stones and acanthus capitals, relics of
a golden past, which had decked the streets of the bazaar, lay
blackened and half buried among the ruins, and after I had made a brief
survey of the site, I handed over to the school-master the little money
that was in my purse, and turned back across the hills.[231] The dusk
gathered about us as we climbed up to the pass, but the road that we had
followed so gaily in the morning was full of darker shadows than those
of night. “Nature, red in tooth and claw with ravine,” cried out from
riven crag and blasted pine; mountain and valley joined in her chorus,
strophe to antistrophe. Mercilessly she creates and destroys; the fury
of the storm, the sharp blade of the frost, the senseless passions of
mankind, are alike of her ordering.
The ruins of Shahr were the sole evidence which I saw with my own eyes
of the far-reaching havoc wrought by the outbreak at Adana, but before I
reached Konia I had opportunity to judge of its lasting effect. In
Cæsarea trade was paralyzed by the economic annihilation of the rich
province of Cilicia, as well as by the fear of further disturbances. The
massacres had struck terror into the heart of Moslem and of Christian;
they extinguished for a time the new-born hopes of peace, and roused
once more the hatred between creed and creed which the authors of the
constitution had undertaken to allay. Every section of the community
suffered from a destruction of confidence which is even more disastrous
than the destruction of wealth, though the Armenians suffered
incomparably the most. But the fact that they bore a penalty out of
proportion to their fault does not acquit them of blame. They had helped
to bring upon themselves the calamity that overwhelmed them; by wild
oratory they had laid themselves open to the accusations of conspiracy
which were brought against them; they had kindled the flames of discord
by preaching in their churches the obligation of revenge. The criminal
folly of their utterances stirred up vague alarms in the breasts of an
ignorant and fanatical population, and from whatever side came the
incitement to outrage, it came to ears sharpened by anxiety. But it must
be remembered that in several instances catastrophe was averted by the
prompt action of the officials who controlled the threatened districts.
In Cæsarea the Mutesarrif, rather than allow a repetition of the Adana
tragedy, ordered his soldiers to fire upon the Moslem crowd, who
clamoured about the serai for arms on the plea that their lives were in
danger from the Christians, and his uncompromising attitude brought the
town to order; the Ḳâimmaḳâm of Eregli patrolled the streets night after
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