ignorant of what lay ahead, we pitched our tents there, opposite an
island which Kiepert calls Ninmala. I found it almost impossible to get
at any names for the numerous islands in these reaches of the Euphrates.
The generic word for them is khawîjeh, and they bear no other title in
the local speech. The Jerâif or Jerîfeh is a tribe which belongs
properly to the right bank, but a few tents had come over on account of
the terrible drought, there being always more pasture in the Jezîreh
than in the Shâmîyeh. They are usually, so ’Isa explained, gôm to his
tribe, the Bu Kemâl, but a truce had recently been patched up and he was
received as hospitably as any of us.
There lies below ’Ânah and to the west of the Euphrates a region of
desert through which few travellers have passed. The track of Chesney’s
journey of 1857 skirts it to the west; Thielmann crossed it nearly forty
years later a little further to the east; Huber, following the Damascus
post-road, touched its northern edge. So said Kiepert, and with this
meagre information as a base I questioned that night the Arabs gathered
round Fattûḥ’s cooking fire as to the north-west corner of the Sasanian
Empire. Among them was an aged man who had been to Nejd, in Central
Arabia, and had brought back thence a bullet which was still lodged in
his cheek; he knew that country, and if I would give him a horse he
would take me to all the castles therein, Khubbâz, ’Amej, Themail,
Kheiḍir....
“Where is Kheiḍir?” said I, for the name was unknown to me or to
Kiepert.
“Beyond Shetâteh,” answered a lean and ragged youth. “I too know it,
wallah!”
“Is it large?” I asked.
“It is a castle,” he replied vaguely, and one after another the men of
the Jerâif chimed in with descriptions of the road. The sum total of the
information offered by them seemed to be that water was scarce and raids
frequent, but there were certainly castles; yes, in the land of Fahd Beg
ibn Hudhdhâl, the great sheikh of the Amarât, there was Kheiḍir. I made
a mental note of the name.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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