The region which we had now entered is particularly lawless. The
government makes no attempt to control the Bedouin, and according to
their custom they are occupied exclusively in raiding one another and in
harrying the outlying property of the inhabitants of Rawâ, the town
opposite to ’Ânah. In addition to the depredations of the local tribes,
the country is swept by armed bands of the Shammar from far away to the
east, and of the Yezîdis, whom the Mohammadans call Devil Worshippers,
from the Jebel Sinjâr. Accordingly when we asked for a guide, we were
told that there was no one who would come with us alone, lest he should
be attacked on his solitary return by blood enemies from half the world
away. We took with us, therefore, two horsemen, ’Affân, of the sheikhly
house, and Murawwaḥ, the one armed with a rifle and the other with a
rusty sword, and for the better part of the day we discussed the
observance of blood feud. The old man with the bullet in his cheek, who
was on his way to Baghdâd and proposed to travel with us as far as
possible, served as an illustration of the text. It had a purely
objective interest, for in spite of the fears exhibited by the Jerâif,
there was very small risk of our meeting with a foe; the season for
raiding is the summer, but the spring is a close time. ’Affân was
eloquent in describing the long rides across the desert in the burning
heat: “Lady, I have ridden four days with no water but what I could
carry; that was when we bore off cattle and mules from the Jebel
Sinjâr.”
“Eh billah!” asseverated Murawwaḥ, and felt for the hilt of his rusty
sword.
We had not gone far before my mare shied out of the path and there swung
up beside us a jovial personage mounted on a blood camel with his
serving-man clinging behind him. He proved to be a sheikh of the Amarât,
who are a branch of the ’Anazeh, and indeed he was own brother to Fahd
ibn Hudhdhâl. His appearance suited his high birth. He was wrapped in a
gold-bordered cloak, a fine silk kerchief was bound about his head, and
his feet were shod with scarlet leather boots; he was tall and well
liking, as are few but the great sheikhs among the half-fed Bedouin. He
related to me the business which had brought him so far from his own
people. One of the Jerâif had murdered a man of the Amarât, and the two
tribes being on friendly terms, Sheikh Jid’ân (such was his name) had
crossed the river to demand the summary execution of the murderer or the
payment of blood money. He was hunting the man down through the Jerâif
tents.
“Shall you find him?” I asked.
“Eh wah!” he affirmed and laughed over his task.
Him too I questioned concerning Kheiḍir. “Go forward to ’Ânah,” he said,
“and there any man will take you to Kheiḍir. And if you come to my
tents, welcome and kinship.” So we parted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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