The island is a little paradise of fruit-trees, palms and corn, in the
middle of which is a village of some thirty houses built in the
heaped-up ruins of the castle. From among the houses springs a tall and
beautiful minaret, octagonal in plan (Fig. 56). Its height is broken by
eight rows of niches, each face of the octagon bearing in alternate
storeys a double and single niche, all terminating in the cusped arch
which is employed at Raḳḳah. Some of the niches are pierced with windows
to light the winding stair. The tower rises yet another two storeys, but
the upper part is of narrower diameter, and the windows and niches are
covered with plain round arches. At the northern end of the island the
walls and round bastions of the fortress stand in part, but they are not
very ancient. Ibn Khurdâdhbeh, who is the first of the Mohammadan
geographers to mention ’Ânah, says only that it is a small town on an
island;[63] in Abu’l Fidâ’s time it was still confined to the
island;[64] Rauwolff (1564) notices the town on the island and the town
on the right bank;[65] Yâḳût (1225) speaks of the castle, but the walls
which I saw cannot be as old as his day. The minaret may belong to a
different period, and de Beylié places it in the earliest centuries of
Islâm.[66] I think that there was probably a fortress on the island long
before the first written record which has come down to us, but I was
close upon a generation too late to see the remains of it. From two
informants in ’Ânah I heard that there had been big stone slabs at the
northern end of the island “with figures of men upon them and a writing
like nails,” but they had fallen into the water within the memory of the
older inhabitants and had been washed away or covered by the stream.
This tale of cuneiform inscriptions would not in itself be worth much,
but while I was examining the minaret, a villager brought me a fragment
of stone covered with carving in relief which was unmistakably Assyrian.
I asked him whence it came, and he replied that it had formed part of a
big stone picture which had fallen into the river. I bought from him a
broken bowl inscribed with Jewish incantations of the well-known
type.[67]
The island was once connected with both banks by bridges. There are some
traces of the section that led across to the Jezîreh, and many piers of
the Shâmîyeh bridge stand in the river. Though these piers no longer
serve the purpose for which they were intended, they are still put to
use, for the inhabitants of the island spread nets between them, and the
fish swimming down with the current are entangled in the meshes and so
caught (Fig. 52). We pulled up one of the nets as we passed, and it
produced two large fish which I bought for a few pence. It is curious
that the Bedouin neglect the ample supply of food with which the river
would furnish them; in spite of frequent inquiries we had never found
fish in their tents.
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