It is nearly nine miles to the summit, or Righi-Kulm. The bridle-path is
rocky, rough, and steep, with a grassy slope upon either side, sprinkled
at this season with dandelions, blue-bells, and odd yellow butter-cups.
Often this slope changed to a precipice, still smiling with flowers.
Upon every level spot orchards of pear trees and apricots had been
planted, while evergreens and shrubs innumerable clung to the mountain
sides, or sprang from among the rocks.
Tossed about wherever they could find a resting-place, were great
boulders of pudding-stone, overhanging the path, rising in our way, or
rolling in broken masses under the horses' feet. Sometimes, perched upon
a natural terrace, was a _châlet_, sheltered from sweep of wind or
avalanche by overhanging rocks half covered with ivy and dainty
clematis. Occasionally a beggar barred the way with outstretched hand,
or offered for sale some worthless trinket, as an excuse for asking
alms. We hugged the rocks upon one side, as other lines of tourists
wound down to meet us, upon horseback or afoot with alpenstocks to aid
their steps. Peasants, laden like beasts of burden, passed as we paused
to rest, with trunks, provisions, and even the red tiles for the new
hotel above, strapped upon their backs, or resting there on wooden
frames. They came and went; but ever present were the wonderful glimpses
of earth, and sky, and shimmering lake far down below.
At the half-way house we turn to climb a gentle slope upon the mountain
face. On either side the land spreads out smooth and green. It had been
hot below. The air strikes us here with an icy chill. A party of young
Englishmen in knickerbockers, with blue veils tied about their hats,
lean over the railing of the piazza, and scan us as we pass. A Spaniard,
with his dark-faced wife, step out of the path--all manner of oily words
dropping from their lips. We reach the Righi-Staffel. Suddenly, upon one
side, the land falls away. Among the reverberating hills echoes the
_jödel_, and from a terrace far below, where a herd of dun cows are
feeding, rises the tinkle of sweet-toned bells. From every path--and
there are many now--winds a slow procession. The grassy slopes are all
alive with people; the hotel piazza, as we pass, is crowded with
travellers. Still they pour in from every side. Still the mountain-peak
rises above us as we go on joining other trains, and leading others in
turn. We pass through a rough gateway, ascend the broken rocks that rise
like steps, follow again the narrow path, and reach at last the hotel,
just before which rises the Kulm.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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