house; upon its bank is a little shop, with its store of Swiss
curiosities and trinkets. A couple of girls fill a tray with the dainty
wares, and cross the space to tempt us. One has a scarlet handkerchief
knotted under her handsome, dark face. She turns her brown cheek to her
shoulder, tossing a word back as the young hostlers contrive to stand in
her way.
One by one the carriages take up their loads and go on. We soon follow
and overtake them, winding slowly up among the rocks, which seem ready
to fall upon us. We form a long train, a strange procession, bound by no
tie but that of common humanity. The meadows and soft, green
mountain-slopes are left behind as we ascend, crossing from one side to
the other by arched bridges thrown over the chasm, at the foot of which
foams the torrent. Higher and higher rise the rent rocks--bare, black
walls, seamed, and scarred, and riven, their summits reaching to the
sky. They close about us, shutting out everything of earth and heaven,
save a narrow strip of blue far above all. Even the sweet light of day
departs, and a gloom and darkness as of a brooding tempest falls upon us
as the way narrows. Suddenly a mad, foaming torrent, with angry roar,
leaps from the rocks above, to toss, and writhe, and moan upon the rocks
below the arch upon which we stand. The water rushes over them, and
dashes against them. It swirls, and pants, and foams, while high above
it all we stand, our faces wet with the spray, our ears deafened by the
terrible roar. Truly, this _is_ "The Devil's Bridge."
Think of armies meeting here, as they did in the old Napoleonic wars,
contending for the passage of the bridge below. Think of the shrieks of
the wounded and dying, mingling with the raging of the waters. Think of
the white foam surging red among the rocks; of the angry torrent beating
out the ebbing life of those who checked its flow. Think of the meeting
of hosts in mortal conflict where no eye but God's could witness it,
upon which not even bird or startled beast looked down. It was like a
dreadful dream from which we passed--as through deep sleep--by a way cut
in the solid rock out into God's world again. Still, from one side of
the road rose the rocks that began to show signs of scanty vegetation
now; from the other fell the precipice to the torrent. We had left the
carriages at the bridge, and singly or in companies toiled up the road
that doubled back upon itself continually. Often we climbed from one of
these windings to the next above, by paths among the rocks, leaving the
carriages to make the turn and follow more slowly. Often our way was the
bed of a last year's torrent, or our feet touched the borders of the
stream, as we pulled ourselves up by the shrubs that grew among the
rocks. The ice-chill in the air brought strength for the time, and
perfect exhilaration. It seemed as if we could go on forever, scaling
these mountain heights.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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