We saw the tall, brick watch-tower, where still hangs the bell that
tolled,--
"I am Roland, I am Roland! There is victory in the land,"
and the old Hôtel de Ville, of conglomerate architecture, one side of
which, in the loveliest flamboyant Gothic imaginable, seems crumbling
away from its very richness. In the Friday-market square--it chancing to
be Friday--was a score of bustling busybodies, swarming like bees.
Here, in the old, quarrelsome times, battles were fought between the
different guilds. I say battles, because at one time fifteen hundred
were slain in this very square. Such a peaceful old square as it seemed
to be the day of our visit! the old gray houses, that have echoed to the
sound of strife, fairly smiling in the sunshine, and the market women
kneeling upon the stones which have run with blood. At one corner rose a
tower, and half way up its height may still be seen the iron rod, over
which was hung imperfect linen, to shame the weaver who had dared to
offer it in the market.
There is a great nunnery here in Ghent--a town of itself, surrounded by
a moat and a wall, where are six hundred or more sisters, from families
high and low, who tend the sick, weave lace, and mortify the flesh in
black robes and white veils. When they become weary of it, they may
return to the world, the flesh, and--their homes: no vows bind them. We
drove along the streets past the cell-like houses where they dwell. Over
the door of each was the name of her patron saint. It seemed a quiet
retreat, a noiseless city, notwithstanding the six hundred women! But by
far the most interesting sight, because the most ancient in the quaint
old city, was the archway and turret of the old royal castle, erected a
thousand years ago; only this gateway remains. Here John o' Gaunt was
born. Built all round, and joined to it, are houses of more recent date,
themselves old and tottering, and the arch beneath which kings and
queens rode once, is now the entrance to a cotton factory.
We had only a few hours at Bruges--the city once more powerful than
Antwerp even, but where not a house has been raised for a hundred years,
and where nearly a third of its inhabitants are paupers. But decay and
dilapidation are strong elements of the picturesque, and nothing seen
that day was more charming than a piece of wall, still standing,
belonging to the old Charles V.'s palace--honey-combed, black, of florid
Gothic architecture, rising from the quiet waters of the canal. At one
end it threw an arch over the street, with a latticed window above it,
beneath which we passed, after crossing the bridge. More than one
picture of Bruges rests within my memory--its canals spanned by the
picturesque bridges, and overhung with willows that dipped their long
branches into the water, and the quaint old houses with many-stepped
gables, rising sheer from the stream.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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