Upon the outskirts of the city are pleasant tea-gardens, often attached
to club-rooms, where concerts are held Sunday evenings, attended by the
upper classes. We walked through one, over the pebbled paths, and among
the deserted tables, and then returned to see more of the town. It was
Saturday night. All the little girls upon the street had their locks
twisted up in papers so tight and fast that they could shut neither eyes
nor mouth, but seemed to be in a continual state of wonderment. All
their mothers were down upon their hands and knees, scrubbing the
doorsteps and sidewalk, in preparation for the Sabbath. The streets were
dirty and uninviting with a few exceptions, yet hardly more so than
could be expected, when you remember that nearly the whole city is a
line of wharves; but we felt no disposition to walk through it in our
slippers, as the guide book in praising its cleanliness, says you may.
What an advantage it would be to the world if the compilers of
guide-books would only visit the places they describe so graphically! We
spent a quiet Sabbath here--the fourth of July--with not so much as a
torpedo to disturb its serenity or mark the day, attending church at the
English chapel, and joining in the responses led by a clear soprano
voice behind us, which we had some desire to locate; but when we turned,
at the conclusion of the service, there was only a row of horrible
chignons to be seen, to none of which, I am sure, the voice belonged.
There is nothing to be seen in Rotterdam but its shipping. One great,
bare church we did visit--"the Lord's barn;" for these cathedrals,
stripped of altar, and image, and stained glass, and boarded into stiff
pews, without the least regard to the eternal fitness of things, are
ugly enough. There is somewhere here a collection of Ary Scheffer's
works,--in the city I mean,--but we did not see it. It is less than an
hour's ride by rail from Rotterdam to the Hague, with the same
delightfully monotonous scenery all along the way--meadows smooth and
green, and fields white for the harvest, separated by the almost
invisible canals. No wonder the Spaniards held the Low Countries with a
grasp of iron--the whole land is a garden. The Hague, being the
residence of the court, is much after the pattern of all continental
capitals, with wide, white streets, white stuccoed houses of regular and
beautiful appearance, and fine, large parks and pleasure-grounds filled
with deer, and shaded by grand old elms as large as those in our own
land, but lacking the long, sweeping branches. A mile from the city is
"The House in the Wood," the private residence of the queen of the
Netherlands. The wood is heavy and of funereal air, but the little
palace is quite charming within, though upon the exterior only a plain
brick country-house. The rooms are small, and hung with rice-paper, or
embroidered white satin, with which also much of the furniture is
covered. The bare floors are of polished wood, with a square of carpet
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