indeed whether there ever were any pilgrim fathers, are questions I cannot undertake to answer. CHAPTER XII. THE RHINE AND RHENISH PRUSSIA. First glimpse of the Rhine.--Cologne and the Cathedral.--"Shosef in ter red coat."--St. Ursula and the eleven thousand virgins.--Up the Rhine to Bonn.--The German students.--Rolandseck.--A search for a resting-place.--Our Dutch friend and his Malays.--The story of Hildegund.--A quiet Sabbath.--Our Dutch friend's reply.--Coblentz.--The bridge of boats.--Ehrenbreitstein, over the river.--A scorching day upon the Rhine.--Romance under difficulties.--Mayence.--Frankfort.--Heidelberg.--The ruined castle.--Baden-Baden.--A glimpse at the gambling.--The new, and the old "Schloss."--The Black Forest.--Strasbourg.--The mountains. WE had made a sweep through Belgium and Holland, intending to return by way of the Rhine and Switzerland. Accordingly, in leaving Amsterdam, we struck across the country to Arnhem, where we found a pleasant hotel near the station, outside of the town. Here we spent the night in order to break the monotony of the ride to Cologne. After climbing stairs to gain our room, wide, but so perpendicular that we were really afraid to descend by them, we had, from a rickety, upper piazza, our first glimpse of the Rhine, winding through flat, green meadows, with hardly more than a suggestion of hills in the distance. There is nothing of interest to detain one at Arnhem. The guide-book informed us that it was the scene of Sir Philip Sidney's death; but no one in the hotel seemed ever to have heard of that gentle knight--_sans peur et sans reproche_.